Jump to content


Icon Welcome to the FMCA Motorhome Forums!

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and signed in, you will be able to create topics; post replies to existing topics; upload pictures; manage your profile; get your own private messenger; create blogs; and more. Sign up now! Already have an account? Sign in. This message will be removed once you are signed in.


Photo
- - - - -

Have To Constantly Plunge My Toilet


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 Jaimepoulin1

Jaimepoulin1

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 17 posts
  • Location:Windham, Maine

Posted 15 December 2013 - 10:32 AM

Hi,

 

I have a 2002 Newmar Dutch Star 40' Class A.

 

Recently, in the last few days, my toilet starts to "burp" when I flush. After a couple of times, I can see that the down spout is starting to fill.

 

I plunge and all is good but a day or so later I have to do it again. There are just 2 of us on the coach. We have been full timing for just under a couple of months. I always drain the septic when it gets to a quarter. Usually this is about once a week. I probably am guilty of not using enough water.....

 

Any thoughts on how to clear this?

 

Thanks

Jaime

 


  • 0

#2 MadHungarian

MadHungarian

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 30 posts
  • Location:Cookeville, TN

Posted 15 December 2013 - 10:55 AM

Is there a vent somewhere in the system? Might have some trash in it.


  • 0

#3 desertdeals69

desertdeals69

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,156 posts

Posted 15 December 2013 - 12:23 PM

All holding tanks have a vent.  Run a snake down from the roof to the holding tank, there maybe some bends that make it more difficult.


  • 0

#4 hermanmullins

hermanmullins

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,462 posts
  • Location:Whitewright, TEXAS

Posted 15 December 2013 - 03:26 PM

Jamie, Have you tried a toilet brush. There may be a snag that needs cleaning.

 

Herman


  • 0

"Fair winds and Following Seas"

Herman & Bobbie Mullins
Whitewright, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964

Southern Region Vice President for Six-State Rally Association
Lone Star Chapter FMCA Past President
South Central Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture


#5 CASEY6242

CASEY6242

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 19 December 2013 - 10:43 AM

I have read several places that you should put a cup of Calagon Water Softner in the black tank.  This helps clean off the sides of the holding tank.   Also add a cup of Cascade Dish Washer soap - in the dark green bottle - it contains enzymes that cut grease and grime - the enzymes help break down the solids.   It is also important to add RV chemical treatment - controls odor-make sure you get the kind that has enzymes in it.   Put the three items in the Black tank after you dump it and add about 5 gallons of water.   All the above items can be found in most Super Walmart stores.

 

When you are in an RV park for a week or more, it is important to keep your black water tank valve closed until the tank is full.   If you don't do that, then the solids pile up in the holding tank like a pyramid and the liquid just goes down the sewer.   You need the chemicals and the liquid in the tank in order for the chemicals to work in breaking down the solids.   Even when you come back from a trip (assuming you are not storing in 32 degrees or lower temperatures) you should add back 5 to 10 gallons of liquid, along with the chemicals while it is in storage.

 

Then the holding tank is ready to go for the next trip.

 

I started to travel more fulltime in October and just connected the sewer to the RV sewer system.   After about 5 weeks my tank was plugged up and I had to pay a RV repair guy $184.00 to get it unplugged.   Also buy the bio-degradeable toilet paper at Walmart - it is worth the price and breaks down.    Regulart household toilet paper does not break down in your holding tank.  

 

Since I have been doing the above, I haven't had any problems .

 

Casey Eichenauer - Member #428093


  • 0

#6 wolfe10

wolfe10

    Advanced Member

  • Moderator, Super
  • PipPipPip
  • 3,438 posts
  • Location:League City, Texas

Posted 19 December 2013 - 04:08 PM

Lots of different ways to treat gray and black water tanks.

 

Personally, I use only water.

 

The goal is never to attempt to make a black or gray tank smell good, but to keep their odor out of the coach.


  • 0

Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator, http://www.dieselrvclub.org/(FMCA chapter)


#7 Elkhartjim

Elkhartjim

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 138 posts

Posted 19 December 2013 - 07:44 PM

I'm with Brett.  Water is the magic ingredient and start with at least 5 gallons.  We need to accept the fact also that the black and gray tanks are holding tanks, not septic tanks.  You can certainly add chemicals but understand the chemical is only there to cover/mask odors.

 

Google Geo Method and use lots of water.  I've never used any chemicals and never had any odor problems but I do use a lot of water.

 

https://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/


  • 0

Jim Sims
2008 38S Fleetwood Bounder DP

Houston, TX area


#8 hermanmullins

hermanmullins

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,462 posts
  • Location:Whitewright, TEXAS

Posted 20 December 2013 - 09:11 AM

Jim, I agree with you.

 

However I do use chemicals in my holding tank when I store it for a period of time. I do use a lot of water. Since we store the coach in a building and there is no air flow over the vents, I use the chemical just to keep down any odors.

 

Even our body needs lots of water.

 

Herman 


  • 0

"Fair winds and Following Seas"

Herman & Bobbie Mullins
Whitewright, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964

Southern Region Vice President for Six-State Rally Association
Lone Star Chapter FMCA Past President
South Central Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture


#9 Lenpa

Lenpa

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • I travel:With Pets

Posted 20 December 2013 - 11:27 PM

Sounds to me like you have a case of the "piles".  Just cleaned one out for a friend tonight - crappy job!  The way most of the RVs are made today result in a black tank that is 6-12 inches deep.  The toilet line enters the tank on the shallow end of the tank - perhaps 3-4 inches.  When we flush while trying to conserve water the solids (poop & paper) tend to accumulate at this entry point.  Often when you dump the tank a small "pile" is left.  When you next use the toilet the pile builds a little more until you reach a point it is backed up into the inlet pipe.

 

If your toilet is still backed up, use a snake (or a straightened coat hanger) to clear a small passage.  Then put a hose with a rag wrapped around the end to form a tight seal in the bottom of the toilet bowl.  Recommend a shut off valve on the hose VERY CLOSE.  Apply a little pressure to the "plug" and hopefully it will free up and flow freely.   Once you get it flowing use a wand to thoroughly clean the inlet to the tank.  Here is a good wand to use:    http://www.amazon.co...black tank wand

 

 

In the future, ALWAYS use plenty of water.  We usually will fill the bowl about 1/3 full before "doing our thing", flush when finished, fill the bowl 1/3 again and flush again.  This helps to "push" the solids into the tank better.  Might have to dump the black tank more often but it sure beats cleaning out the "pile".

 

Try not to dump the black tank until it is nearly full.  This allows the solids to dissolve and flow easily out of the tank.  If you do dump before it is at least half full, use your black tank flush to put extra water into the tank before dumping.  My tank gauge is a joke and never works.  I wait until the toilet burps (tells me the vent pipe is blocked) before I dump whenever possible.

 

As for the toilet paper to use - RV toilet paper IS NOT needed.  Any septic approved paper will work fine.  To test it take 2-3 sheet and place it in a glass of water, shake it briefly and if it disintegrates it is fine to use.  We use White Cloud 2 ply and have not had a problem as long as we use plenty of water as noted above.  In fact I strongly urge you to put about five gallons into the tank after you dump each time. 

 

As for chemicals, we never use them unless there is a significant odor problem - typically very hot weather.

 

The plumber snake I carry came in handy tonight.  Managed to unplug the toilet with only a little splashing inside the bowel itself!  Rubber gloves were nice though!

 

Another accessory I will not be without is the Flush King:  http://www.campingwo...=p_sort_default

 

Hope this helps.

Lenp


  • 0

USN Retired (1983)

Electrical Engineer, Tektronix, Inc. 83-99

2002 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom

Full time from 1999-2011 in a fifth wheel

Now part time


#10 TBUTLER

TBUTLER

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,293 posts
  • Location:Ayers Rock, Australia

Posted 21 December 2013 - 10:00 AM

Another thing to be aware of is that the tank will empty better if you empty it after driving rather than before leaving a campground where you have been parked.  If you drive several hundred miles, it will stir up the solids and they will be flushed out better when you dump the tank.  When we dump I pour buckets of water directly down the toilet once the tank has emptied.  We have a built-in sprayer that helps but I still get significant solids out using the bucket flush as evidenced by the color of the water that comes through the transparent coupling that I put on between the tank fitting and the sewer hose.  The bucket dump also effectively attacks the pile that Lenp mentions above.  We've never had a problem with the tank backing up and the two of us usually go a week and a half to two weeks between dumping.  And I agree with Lenp, we've been using regular toilet paper without any problems.


  • 0

Tom and Louise Butler
2004 Monaco Windsor, Cummins 400 ISL
Roadmaster Sterling Tow Bar, Brakemaster, GMC Acadia, BikeE Recumbent Bicycles

After 9 1/2 years full time in our motor home and being Winter Texans we are now living at Sandpipers Resort in Edinburg, Texas. Now we are Summer Chickens!

"The tipi is much better to live in; always clean and warm in winter, cool in summer, easy to move... If the Great Spirit wanted men to live in one place he would have made the world stand still." -- Flying Hawk, South Dakota Oglala Sioux


#11 Wayne77590

Wayne77590

    USMC (Ret)

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,048 posts
  • I travel:With Pets

Posted 22 December 2013 - 12:30 PM

Hi Jaime,

 

Many different approaches and all seem to work. Here's one more.

 

I have a back flush, don't know if a 2002 has one or not.  I dump every time we move, even if it is 1/3 full or less. On very rare occasions do I travel with "matter" in my tanks. 

 

Before I pull the handle to dump I turn on the backflush water. it only takes me a few seconds to pull the handle after turning on the water.  I have a clear elbow coming from the tank so I can watch what is coming out.  After the tank has drained the backflush water will start running almost clear.  When it dose, I close the valve and using my watch I'll time the backflush into the tank for 1 minute. (2 minutes if water pressure is real low.) I do not use a regulator for the backflush unless I have been warned by the CG that the pressure is extremely high.  After the time I allocated I pull the handle again. I might do this a couple times, watching the clear elbow.

 

At one point during the dump with the handle pulled I'll ask DW to fill the bowl with water up to the brim and push the foot pedal. this puts about 3-4 gallons or more of water rushing down the tube and hitting any "pile-up."  I ask her to do this twice, all the while backflushing, and watching the clear plastic for teltale signs of anything other than clear water.  You'll be surprised at the water turning less than clear.

 

After the dump, I close the valve to the black tank and time 1 minute of water input.  Depending on the pressure, some times i may go a little longer on the time.  I then put in two capfuls of Calgon liquid water softener.  You would be surprised how easy it is to keep the black tank clean with the Calgon sloshing around on the road.  I also use one packet of deodorant, just for the heck of it.

 

We have never had a clog  

 

Just another perspective.


  • 0

Wayne, MSgt, USMC (Ret)

2008 Winnebago Destination

2013 Lincoln MKX


#12 hermanmullins

hermanmullins

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,462 posts
  • Location:Whitewright, TEXAS

Posted 23 December 2013 - 11:20 AM

While everyone is giving their suggestions on the way they dump here is ours. When we leave for home I disconnect the water solenoid from the ice maker, ( the power wire). This way the ice tray will dump and no water will inter the maker. When we are several miles from home, the DW will dump all the ice down the toilet. The ice will slosh around and loosen stuff. We then dump when we get home and then put the coach in Barn.

 

Herman on the dump. 


  • 0

"Fair winds and Following Seas"

Herman & Bobbie Mullins
Whitewright, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964

Southern Region Vice President for Six-State Rally Association
Lone Star Chapter FMCA Past President
South Central Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users