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wildebill308

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Everything posted by wildebill308

  1. Yes, it is normal for your air preshure to varrey. The question is how fast does it change? Does it drop fairly rapidly when you are just sitting with the engine running? Bill
  2. I wouldn't do any compression increases because you can't get good enough gas to run. All the current stuf is to low octane. Wilmotte, In one of the threads you were talking about rebuilding the motor. Why does it have problems? Before you do anything else you need to check the date codes on the tires. Bill
  3. Replace it with pex. If there is room just run anouther line. It may have the old gray looking lines(I don't remember what it is called) They get brittle and crack. I would look at replacing it wherever possible with pex. Bill
  4. Welcome to the forum. That looks like quite a project. Bill
  5. I was just at Kroger and they are doing a remarkable job making soy look like chicken. Bill
  6. Looks like he is hung up on the hitch. I almost did that at my sisters old place in Erie. They had a fairly deep gutter and a pretty good hill up their driveway. The bad part is the driveway was guarded by brick columns so you had to hit it pretty much straight on. I hit it going a little fast because I was afraid it would drag. YES it did. I left a realey stylish J in the street that is probably still there. Bent the hitch so I had to replace it. Bill
  7. Jay, welcome to the forum. Let us know what the dealer had to say. Allso do some research and learn how to read the date codes on the tires. You are going to want to get as new of a tire as you can. Bill
  8. Let me help you. You can start now and have the Enclave ready to tow 4 down or you can wait till after the first trip using the dolly. After your first trip with the dolly you will understand this better. Bill
  9. Welcome to the forum paulman. Glad you had a good trip. Congratulations on your new RV. Bill
  10. Just did a little reading and if you have the trailering package it should have tow/haul mode. Look at pages 9-26,27 in owners manual. Button is supposed to be under the climate controls. Bill
  11. How fast were you going during this test? You may just need to slow down. Bill
  12. Welcome to the forum bettylou. I recommend self insuring. Places like America's RV Warranty that in business to make money. There are lots of good post on heare worth reading. Tell us what you are looking to get a warranty on? Bill
  13. Look at this one. https://cedarcreekresort.org/rvpark/ Download https://www.campgroundreviews.com/ https://www.rvparky.com/ Bill
  14. Welcome to the forum Zilpha. Hopefully for a transmission cooler. See if there is room for a fan on the front of the radiator. Look at these coolant additives. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/coolant-additives?GroupBy=ProductName&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending I don't think that will be a problem. Make shure your trailer is fairly level. I don't want to say it won't work but you are definitely at the max. When you add food water (maybe just a few gallons so you can use your bathroom on the road) outher equipment, well it adds up fast If you do upgrade I would highly suggest a 3/4 and a diesel. So in a year or three when you want to upgrade you will not have to upgrade the tow vehicle. The type of trailer isn't going to make that much difference, it is weight. Bill
  15. Hay Puff old buddy. Can you drop buy and demonstrate how you did such a great job? I will social distance. Bill
  16. All the black tank flush lines should already have a check valve. Bill
  17. Look at the left inboard corner of the forward compartment. I can't see well enough to be shure. Get the part number and order it from Amazon. I have seen them at Walmart. Bill
  18. I think Ross hit the main points. You could have a check valve on the line from the tank to the pump to keep it from doing that. I had to smile when I saw your hookup to flush the black tank. My only concern would be not enough preshure to be effective and using filtered water for that purpose. There are some germ phobic people who will be sanitizing their screen. Let us know what you find out. Bill
  19. My toppers were always fairley tight and didn't have a problem with water on the topper but it will still get under it on top of the slide. I have found adding a couple leveling blocks under the jacks makes shure you get all the water off. Bill
  20. What Ken said reminded me f something. Pull the front of the thermostat off and see if there is a fuse there. Pull it out and check it. I know you can check it installed but pulling it out does a reset on the system. I have fixed several weird electrical problems this way. Bill
  21. On my last RV it said to level then slides. This was on a Freightliner chassis. This makes the most sense to me as you have to be level for the absorption refrigerator. Why go through the work of getting the slides out if you can't get level enough for the refrigerator and may need to move. I still do it that way in the Newmar. On the subject of water getting in. I learned early on to tilt the coach to drain any water off the top of the slide. The first time it happened it had rained the night before we were leaving a campground up in Ohio. Got the slides in and ready to go. We were parked at the top of a little hill and when pulling forward to get out the front drivers side slide pored a couple of quarts of cold water on my head and down my back. I now have a checklist item to drain the slides. Bill
  22. I will let you. Every time you make a suggestion or propose something that they didn't think of they run and hide. and I am being argumentative? See the July 8 post, 10 days ago and no response from D.Ball or smithy. zimmeral, welcome to the forum. You are right.
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