kaypsmith

The solids which make black water tanks be dirtier is in most cases of human waste is close to 30% fat. These fats dissolve at upward of 100 degrees, adding ice is only someones thought that the solidness of ice will help break loose is only a farce. This is why that I always recommend that in addition to using Calgon and dawn one should flush with as hot water is available. This is the only solution that I have found effective in cleaning the black tank. By the way, this is the reason that I always recommend using dawn as opposed to just dish washing liquid, it seems to help dissolve grease much more effectively than most others.

Sorry for the delayed answer, have been camped since early Sept., with poor to no internet at times. That was in 1970, and no I don't still have but if you visited today would be free, same invite if you ever pass this way, I'd love to take U out to eat.

Been there and done that same thing. Once came to an overpass that was too low, a deputy sheriff was behind, he got out and climbed up my ladder to watch to make sure no hangups, I dropped the air in the air bags, and made it with a half inch clearance. Strange thing, there was a state CG just on the other side of the overpass with signs directing campers to go that way, go figure this.

Sikaflex is my go to adhesive sealant, the aircraft industry, and most truck trailer builders use it to apply the aluminum and fiberglass skins. Polyurethane and elastomeric composition, can be ordered online or purchased at any truck/trailer builder. I used it to put the aluminum skins on my coach to cover the windows, nine years and still water tight. On the old Sportscoach that I owned previously, I rebuilt the bay doors with brushed stainless steel, then covered with fiberglass skins, sure beat those fiber covered plywood that was on the coach origionally.

If it is what it is screwed to, I use a thin piece of aluminum larger than the hole, attached with a new screw on each side of the current hole, then use a new sheet metal screw to attach the old panel. Of course I use flat head screws to attach the aluminum layover.

Good thing is, the red and blue are both Pex, freezing will not burst them, but the fittings are a different story. That spray foam that is shown in the picture could be used to insulate the pipes if sprayed further down to include those fittings. I make a carboard cover (form) with a small hole, use the pipe that comes with the spray foam to insert in the hole, then spray until the foam overflows. That black pipe is probably butyl, and is not forgiving in freezing conditions.

Peter, if the transmission is four speed Allison, most likely an HT740 in that model.

Netgear Nighthawk 1200AC is my favorite for out of the box functionality. It does do everything that you listed, if you are comfortable setting your parameters, you can do almost anything that a router is supposed to do including use as an access point. TP Link makes a very inexpensive router that can be set up for load balancing up to four WAN's.

Here is a good article about ST (special trailer) tires that may be helpful in understanding trailer tires. LT tires are actually designed for light truck and trailer use but have their limitations. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=219

Be sure to check all chassis battery connections including the ground connections. I trust that you did hold for three seconds to reset any type breaker.

Most of those type lines have a release mechanism that you either push away or pull toward you to cause them to release. If yours is like this you may want to try using some light weight oil on the release to get the spring back to working.

Have you been near Lincoln Co., Nevada? Strange things seem to happen near area 51. Sorry for your misfortune, I sincerely hope that you find a solution.

It sure looks as if there is a restriction of some type happening, could be in the duct work, but I'm betting that there is a design flaw with the reversing valve design on this brand unit. Were it I, I would be looking for a different brand. Three strikes your out in my book.

That would depend on the tire and load rating. Most automotive tires have much lower sidewall pressure rating than an ST tire, automotive is rated for a much lower load and a higher speed rating, most are only 2 ply sidewall, while an ST rated tire has a higher load rating and a slower speed rating, usually 6 ply or higher. The best practice is to buy the correct tire, and drive according to the speed rating. If an ST tire it will have the correct max weight stamped and the pressure is set to match this, any weight up to this weight should be OK, if driven accordingly.

Great looking work Ernie!

I doubt that Goodyear had anything to do with putting those tires on that trailer, they don't build the trailers or choose the tires.

Carl, nothing beats stainless steel, if it gets too unsightly, 2000 grit sandpaper then polish with 4000 grit.

In most cases the windshield is covered under comprehensive, not collision, and most companies cover comprehensive at 50% of collision deductible. That is a question for your insurance company.

I've run Goodyear Wranglers on several trucks and now on my Jeep Wrangler, have had very good luck with them. I am surprised that a car hauler came with them on it as they are not designed to be used on a trailer. I would suggest that one should use an ST tire on any car hauler because of the number of plies on the sidewalls, I want even run automotive tires on a tow dolly, and especially on my car hauler. I started this yesterday before tireman9 had responded, but was called away a did not finish. I have re read the OP and saw that you were referring to Wrangler II, I can not find any reference to wrangler II to know if ST or not, so I agree with Roger that they do appear too aggressive for load bearing purpose.

We use a trail of Sulphur around the house to help deter snakes, works better than snake away.

Most likely with a side mount radiator, the fan is probably hydraulic, the faster the motor turns the faster the fan turns as a result. Dirty condenser core can cause high pressure in the system just like the dirty condenser in your home AC. The dash air in every motorhome is totally different than the bus air on our bus conversions, most are rotary compressors like on most cars, while the bus air are piston type compressors, mine is a 5 ton unit designed to cool the entire bus, while dash air is actually designed to cool only the front seats of a MH. I agree that steps must be taken to lower the pressure, my starting place would be to clean the condenser core and of course the radiator, and I agree that a new expansion valve and drier if the compressor is making that pressure. A typical MH only uses 3 to 5 # of refrigerant in the dash air. Many side mount radiator systems also have an electric fan as a backup, look for that as well.

I also like to use an ac disconnect box for this type of extension, less than 10 bucks at any box electrical store, Lowes, Home Depot, or Ace Hwdw., like you would use for air conditioner disconnect. Here is one at home depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-240-Volt-Non-Fuse-Metallic-AC-Disconnect-TFN60RCP/100674085?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D27E|27-8_CIRCUIT_PROTECT._DEVICES|NA|PLA|71700000034238981|58700003943782709|92700031956831784&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9NbdBRCwARIsAPLsnFbihdnKxztFjOKR7k14y4-4jMTZhWhjfMs14GSvulpsZz9wA3HKRg8aAt2sEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKD7l-XK7d0CFUlswQodZ9gOmQ

The locks on each arm appear to be set with not enough distance in length on their respective arm. If the distance were a inch longer, it would not allow this to happen. I did not have a problem with this before the quicker than usual stop after the blow out. I can not find any visual bends in the unit now, but if it is not hooked to the coach, I am able to move the non stationary arm all the way over to the stationary arm with both lock pins locked. That is not supposed to happen, until I find a better fix, I will be using a safety chain to not allow this to happen again. I hoped that Roadmaster would respond with a good fix, but 9 days later still have not heard back from them. I will be emailing them again this PM. To test yours, simply put the assembly out like you are ready to tow with both pins in locked position, now try to push the side that slides back toward the stationary side, if it allows it to go back more than a couple inches without resistance then yours is doing like mine. I would sure like to know your results. I actually had intended this to be started in a new thread but with Carl's question it got here accidently. If the moderator chooses to move it, I will be grateful, thanks.

I don't know how it will be for 2018 with the newest tax codes, but has been through 2017.

My Wrangler tows great but, on the way back from TN., I had a blow out on the inside drive axel passenger side of the coach. I was in the center lane of I-459 southbound so I moved to the right lane then to the emergency lane and stopped pretty quickly. About 2.5 hours later the roadside repair had finally had mounted the spare tire on the rim of the blown tire. When I got back on the road and about two miles down the road the Wrangler started wandering to the left side of the coach, tow bar is a Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000. I let my wife finish driving the Jeep home, and I have now added a safety device to the tow bar to prevent this from happening again. Only two incidents while towing vehicles over the past 50 years, both were on 4 down vehicles. By the way the pins were locked properly when this occurred, I called Roadmaster and sent them pictures of this.