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Backstory: I've got a vacuflush system on my 2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U. The pump began to run continuously. Not too uncommon, and it's always been a small piece or tissue or something caught in the gasket seal right at the location that opens when you hit the foot pedal (not sure what that is called). This time that seal was fine ( I could tell because it wasn't sucking water through). After some research I learned it was probably something in the duck bill valve on the pump. (symptom included clogged toilets and continuous running vacuflush pump) Dug into the system and YES>>>>> that was it.... cleared and cleaned the blockage. Pump and system worked fine for about a day then begins to stay on all the time. Symptoms were slightly different as the pump would stay on but drain slowly. Would not drain if I turned pump off. I figured it could not be the same issue, blockage, because no solids had been put into the system since I cleaned it the day prior. Just prior to breaking the system apart again to see if I could find the problem I ran the pump to drain all the water out for less of a mess when I disconnected everything below. Well, bad news.... the pump stopped.... but not because it had achieved the desired pressure.... the toilets would not drain, and the pump would not run. I pulled the system apart and sure enough, no clog. No obvious reason it would not keep pressure. I thought it might be a duck bill valve damaged slightly and not obvious to the eyes.... I cleaned everything up, cycled the pump by hand to simply check to see if it was frozen up, or binded somehow.... It cycled manually just fine.... but would not cycle when turned on. You could hear it make a small noise when the switch was turned on, but would not cycle. Since the system really won't drain without the pump I bypassed the entire system and am now on gravity drain, which doesn't work very well, and obviously we can put solids in there. The pump I have is: Dometic Vacuflush (pictured below). I guess at this point I'm looking for any ideas I may have missed that are obvious? or.... if anyone knows a place that can work on this pump in the Clermont FL (S.E. Orlando) area I can bring the pump in. It's not hooked up so it would be easy to do. OR..... IS THERE A WAY TO PERMENANTLY BYPASS THIS CRAPPY SYSTEM???? My friend has a 3" pipe that goes directly into the black tank from his toilet. I would love that!!!!! The hoses on the vacuflush are as small as 1" near the pump..... a recipe for clogs if I've every seen one. I can't keep it bypassed like I have it now because of the small hose, and how it has to go down, then back up..... the pump is what pushes the contents back up a foot or so to get into the top of the tank. Right now we are at Winter Quarters Manatee Encore park near Tampa but moving up near Orlando Thursday Dec 21. Dometic Vacuflush 12VDC LPVG-W-PUMP Assembly
If you follow my topic last Christmas Holiday season http://community.fmca.com/topic/6353-our-holiday-travel-misadventure-so-far/, you would know about the basement heater failure and pipe freezing on the first leg of our trip dry camping in twin Falls, ID. No way to get a part quickly so I had to order from Monaco while at Las Vegas and have shipped to North Carolina hopefully before I arrive there. In the meantime I travel south to stay thaw out as I knew I was lucky not to have any damage. Now I paid big money for that heater box (Cargo Heat) plus shipping and it worked when I first installed it for the few times needed on the east coast. Got chased from there by a blizzard. Then I cross southern California and up into Oregon and the basement heater failed again. Well I got no warranty on the heater just sorry but you must check the wiring in your coach. Finally last week I got one tech at Monaco to tell me how to bench test it. I took them both in my shop and found that they both fail the bench test. No surprise there as I knew they didn't work in the coach and the wiring checked out. I first took the old one apart and remove the heating element and ohm it and it check out as well as overheat switch. I knew the relay worked as it kicked in with the 12 volt signal wire. I put it back together and it work like it's supposed to. I installed that one in the coach and tested the operation there and works OK so one down one to go. I took the new one apart and ohm it out the same way and found one wire broken to the overheat switch and a bad diode. I fixed the wire but could only bypass the diode as I have nothing like that. I put that one to the side for a spare in case of an emergency. The bottom line is that these basement heaters are not reliable as the should be and Monaco not offer a warranty even though I ask them for one. Instead the sent me on a wild chase testing wiring when all alone it was bad heaters. I even had to search and find the wiring diagram on the internet. So again with another new company owning Monaco/Holiday Rambler it's same old attitude of not caring.
Okay, the water heater is pretty much a no brainer I suppose..... one you get set up in camp, you turn it on and leave it on, correct? Seems like that's the way it should be....other wise you'd have to wait for your water to heat up every time you wanted to wash dishes or take a shower. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Now for the water pump.... Since water will be brought to us & I'm not sure how that setup is going to be, I'm not sure exactly how to phrase my question... My hubby said he thinks that if you are hooked up to 'city' water (pressurized) all you do is turn the faucet on or flush the toilet just like you would in your home. MY question is, if you are running off your fresh water tank, do you turn the pump on every time you need water to flow (sink/shower/toilet) and then turn it back off? Or do you leave it on all the time? I'd think not, but it's better to ask than burn something up. Thanks in advance! I love this forum and look forward to the day that I can help other newbee's