hlswaim

Atwood Levelegs

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hlswaim   

Does anybody have experience with the Atwood Levelegs system? Can you advise me how to tell if a problem of intermittent operation is caused by a faulty control box, key pad or otherwise?

Twice, but not in-a-row, the level legs failed to fully extend on my '06 Fleetwood Bounder. The first time I got a low voltage fault followed by a failure of the left rear leveler fault light. The most recent incident when they failed to fully extend, I got the fault light for the right rear leveler, but after I reset it switched to the right front leveler. In both instances the left rear leveler seemed to be the problem (not fully extending), but I can't find any evidence of any electrical short or poor ground. It doesn't blow any fuse, and after I've reset and retracted multiple times, it resumes operating normally. It could be a poor ground, but according to the diagram, all four motors are grounded on the same buss.

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wolfe10   

Check voltage with a digital voltmeter at the control panel while deploying the jacks. If 12+VDC, I would suggest giving Atwood a call at 800-546-8759.

Brett

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I have the Atwood Levelegs. To prevent the low voltage problem the engine must be running at a little more than idle. If you try to run the jacks without the engine running, the low voltage indicator will stop the process.

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hlswaim   

That makes sense. I have been having some charging issues lately. Checks indicate that the alternator is OK and it's a brand-new chassis battery.

Could a weak or failing house battery draw voltage off the system to cause the main battery to show symptoms of losing its charge? It stays plugged-in to 115vac so I have to check the batteries on a weekly basis for the electrolyte levels.

Thanks.

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wolfe10   
That makes sense. I have been having some charging issues lately. Checks indicate that the alternator is OK and it's a brand-new chassis battery.

Could a weak or failing house battery draw voltage off the system to cause the main battery to show symptoms of losing its charge? It stays plugged-in to 115vac so I have to check the batteries on a weekly basis for the electrolyte levels.

Thanks.

Best advice is to fully charge all batteries and go to a place that sells batteries for a free load test.

Also, verify that chassis as well as house batteries are charged from shore power. If not, add an Xantrex Echo charger, Trickle charger, etc.

And what converter/charger do you have that causes you to have to check electrolyte level on a weekly basis? Sure sounds like it is overcharging the batteries. 13.2-13.5 VDC is where they should be once float has been achieved (check with digital voltmeter 24+ hours after plugging in).

Brett

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hlswaim   

Good advice. I check the electrolyte levels frequently because I worry about leaving it on the charger continuously, but only replenish with distilled water as necessary - usually once/month. I've been all over the rig with a digital multi-meter to check for voltage bleed-off (which I haven't found) but, I don't recall checking the voltage-in with the multi-meter. I check the installed voltage meter which usually reads 13.8 - 14 vdc. Thanks. I'll try that and see what the read is at the battery(ies).

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wolfe10   
Good advice. I check the electrolyte levels frequently because I worry about leaving it on the charger continuously, but only replenish with distilled water as necessary - usually once/month. I've been all over the rig with a digital multi-meter to check for voltage bleed-off (which I haven't found) but, I don't recall checking the voltage-in with the multi-meter. I check the installed voltage meter which usually reads 13.8 - 14 vdc. Thanks. I'll try that and see what the read is at the battery(ies).

Ya, anything over about 13.5 VDC is too high for being plugged in 24/7.

Again, what converter, charger or inverter/charger do you have? Many higher end ones are programmable (read that-- they NEED TO BE PROGRAMMED).

Brett

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I recently purchased an Allegro Bay FRED equipped with Atwood Levelegs. First time out when I retracted them, all physically retracted; however the system "saw" one as still being extended. I called the CoachNet tech support and we tried a few things to no avail. Saw $$$ in front of my eyes taking it to a service dealer but decided to call Atwood @ 574-264-2131. After wending my way through the sub-menus I spoke with a service tech named Linda. She walked me through resetting the system with precise instructions that were easily understood. Everything is now working and no service fee from a dealer. Atwood Tech Service is GREAT! Do not hesitate to call if you have an Atwood problem. Other RV product mfgs. should emulate them.

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I have checked several RV salvage yards to get one, too. I have not found any and have placed my name on their call if one comes in list. I have replaced 4 controllers since spring 2008 at $525 each. The weak area seems to be the 4 pin connector which is very susceptible to moisture and then corrosion. I have tried electrical grease and anti-corrosion fluid, and neither has worked. My understanding is that Atwood no longer supports or manufactures the controller. Actually it is made overseas. They have a new system that would require replacement of the jacks, controller, and front panel. If I have to do that, I will go to HWH and that cost is $5,000 installed.

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I have checked several RV salvage yards to get one, too. I have not found any and have placed my name on their call if one comes in list. I have replaced 4 controllers since spring 2008 at $525 each. The weak area seems to be the 4 pin connector which is very susceptible to moisture and then corrosion. I have tried electrical grease and anti-corrosion fluid, and neither has worked. My understanding is that Atwood no longer supports or manufactures the controller. Actually it is made overseas. They have a new system that would require replacement of the jacks, controller, and front panel. If I have to do that, I will go to HWH and that cost is $5,000 installed.

Man, 4 units in like 6 years!!!

Got to ask where the controller is mounted on your coach.

Could you post a picture of the controller and the connectors the one on the board and its mating cable end.

Would this be an electric leveling system? Thinking the issue might be a high current load and connectors and cable size being to small for the load.

Rich.

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The controller is mounted in the Electrical Bay next to the Xantrex inverter/charger.

It is an electrical jack system. Cannot post a picture now. The wiring is fine. The size is about #22 gauge. These are signal wires only with mini Walden-Molex connectors. The power wires are not a problem. They are about #8 gauge. The connectors to that feed the individual jacks have # 10 or #12 wire and have never been a problem. The pins for the signal lines are on the controller board and about the size of wire wrap pins.The corrosion develops between the connector and the pins. I don't have any problems with any other electrical item in this bay.

The best and longest duration of satisfactory service is the present setup. Where after taking the pins off an old board and soldering them to the installed board and replacing the cable with its new connector, I coated the outside of the connector, control board and about 2 inches of the cable with clear silicon caulk about 1/2 inch thick to keep moisture out.

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Ross,

Good description of the wiring and of the problem area, along with your efforts to resolve the issue.

Sound like you did everything right in regards to the work you did.

You sure sealed the connection from moisture intrusion.

That leaves only one possibility that I can think of, at the time.

There is a possibility of an electrical reaction between the pins and the connectors, due to a dissimilar material makeup between the pin and socket materials. Kind of like an electrolysis reaction.

There is a conductive grease on the market, made with a very high content of carbon. A coating of this material on the pins before they are mated; might answer that question.

NOTE! DO NOT get any of the grease between the pins !! will allow a current path between circuits. Not what you want.

Rich.

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F298015   

I have had problems with my Levelegs on a 2007 Alfa. I have replaced both the remote and the main controller. Two jacks are still showing problems. I am looking to replace the system. Two places have recommended that I use the new Leveleg system which has an additional control wire to each jack. Has anyone else done this? Or changed to hydraulics?

Dave

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Tipit55   

I have had problems with my Levelegs on a 2007 Alfa. I have replaced both the remote and the main controller. Two jacks are still showing problems. I am looking to replace the system. Two places have recommended that I use the new Leveleg system which has an additional control wire to each jack. Has anyone else done this? Or changed to hydraulics?

Dave

Hi Dave

I have a 2007 Alfa Gold with the Levelegs & my coach drops 7" when I was leveling. I disassembled the leg to find only 4 small spots that holds the whole coach up. Tomorrow a machine shop will make the repairs. My controller is fine.

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F298015   

Hi Dave

I have a 2007 Alfa Gold with the Levelegs & my coached drop 7" when I was leveling. I disassembled the leg to find only 4 small spots that holes the whole coach up. Tomorrow a machine shop will make the repairs. My controller is fine.

I ended up having Charlie's in Utah replace the original Levelegs complete system with the updated version.

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I have had nothing but problems with this system. I have a '07 Newmar Kountry Star with the Atwood Level Legs. Been thru it all with them. Every time I went to use them, either set up or leaving, I had my fingers crossed hoping they would work. Replace a whole jack, on Atwood. Replace a motor on another one. Still crossing my fingers. After the last malfunction it turns out to be the controller. Big $$$, if you can get one.

Call to Atwood, who has been great to work with, turns out the controller is discontinued. Great now what do I do, they said I can buy a whole new system, jacks, controller, etc. Its the relays in the controller, cant handle the power, they burn out.

After much research I found a company that makes a replaceable unit. Cut out the Atwood controller and now I have a manual/momentary air dump switch and a hand held remote to operate each jack individually. Works Great, no more crossed fingers. And oh, it was $145 shipped to the house.

Check forum " Electric or Hydraulic leveling" I have the company name and parts number.

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I am looking for a broken controller for Atwood Leveleges.

I have a person who is willing to repair or rebuild them. I had problems with mine and I called Tiffin and also Atwood. If the controller goes out you have to replace the whole jack system ,because Atwood can not get anymore controllers. This is very costly and this guy has 32 years exp. on building boards and has strong contact in China which is where the units are made. If he can rebuild them or build a stronger one it would save a lot of money.

If you have one please let me know (giroirricky@aol.com)

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On 8/4/2015 at 4:34 AM, Markstella said:

I have had nothing but problems with this system. I have a '07 Newmar Kountry Star with the Atwood Level Legs. Been thru it all with them. Every time I went to use them, either set up or leaving, I had my fingers crossed hoping they would work. Replace a whole jack, on Atwood. Replace a motor on another one. Still crossing my fingers. After the last malfunction it turns out to be the controller. Big $$$, if you can get one.

Call to Atwood, who has been great to work with, turns out the controller is discontinued. Great now what do I do, they said I can buy a whole new system, jacks, controller, etc. Its the relays in the controller, cant handle the power, they burn out.

After much research I found a company that makes a replaceable unit. Cut out the Atwood controller and now I have a manual/momentary air dump switch and a hand held remote to operate each jack individually. Works Great, no more crossed fingers. And oh, it was $145 shipped to the house.

Check forum " Electric or Hydraulic leveling" I have the company name and parts number.

Markstella,

I feel your pain after replacing two rear motors for broken drive gears, sending the control board to the east coast for repair and now my drivers rear will not stop turning when it is retracted. Atwood says there is something wrong with the leg now. Can you tell me more how you made an air dump switch and did you install the new equipment yourself? Thank you 

 

Larry A.

2006 Tiffin Phaeton 40QSH

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manholt   

Larry A.  Welcome to the Forum.

The post your responding to is one year old.  Click on Mark's profile and send him a message.

Carl

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JohnArch   

Larry A - MarkStella is in W. Springfield for the FMCA rally. Send him a PM and when I see him later today, I will let him know of your inquiry.

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Larry, the dump switch is a momentary switch.  I did not wire it, a friend of mine did.  He left Springfield and went to the beach for another week.  When he returns I'll  get the info for you.

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On 8/3/2016 at 4:42 AM, JohnArch said:

Larry A - MarkStella is in W. Springfield for the FMCA rally. Send him a PM and when I see him later today, I will let him know of your inquiry.

Thank you for the assist!

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ekmaddox   

The only good solution to this Atwood Levelleg system is a new Power Gear or HVH system.
These are nothing but one aggravating failure after another.  Mine will not level my coach. I have used Lynx Blocks to level the RV, and then recalibrated the atwood system.
Take the coach off the lynx blocks, hit Auto and ........yep.....ain't level.
Try to manually level with the control pad?  Forget it, that ain't gonna happen.  Either the jacks won't move, the controller won't turn on, and then won't turn off. 
Atwood needs to reimburse every RV owner that unfortunately has these things.

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