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Braking on a Steep Grade
#1
Posted 24 January 2012 - 06:18 PM
When I reached the bottom, the brakes were hot. I am also towing a small suv. I Drove another 10 miles and pulled over at the next town for a break.
One half hour later, I went to leave. I put my foot on the brake to start it, and when I started it the brake pedal went all the way to the floor. I pumped the brakes a few times and still nothing. I waited another few moments and pumped the brakes again, and then they came back to normal. Does anyone know why it did that. Is there any solution for braking going down a steep incline, like an engine brake.
Thanks Gord.
#2
Posted 24 January 2012 - 06:46 PM
I am sure you will get some good firsthand information on your specific brake failure question.
A couple of general comments:
Be sure that you change you brake fluid every 2-3 years. As it absorbs water (as it was designed to do to protect the iron parts of you brake system) the boiling point of brake fluid decreases from close to 500 degrees F to 286 degrees F! Temperatures in your calipers under extended hard braking can exceed 286.
The proper use of your service brakes while descending a grade is to NOT USE THEM. They are not there to help you maintain a safe speed of descent. They are ONLY to be used to slow you down enough to "grab a lower gear." Though your coach weighs many times what your car weights, brake surface area (dictated by size of wheels) is only slightly larger than on your car. So a very different driving technique is needed.
The correct gear to descend a grade is the gear that holds your speed in equilibrium. That could mean 1st or 2nd gear, even if the road is dead straight for 10 miles. If you find that your speed is increasing, firmly apply the brakes enough to slow down enough to "grab a lower gear." Physics dictates that your equilibrium speed is slower than an empty 18 wheeler and faster than a loaded one.
We assume that your toad has brakes as well. Your chassis brakes were not designed to stop the weight of the coach AND the toad.
If you drive properly, you will not wear out coach brakes -- we have 158,000 miles on original brakes and have driven a LOT of serious mountain roads.
Brett
Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator, http://www.dieselrvclub.org/(FMCA chapter)
#3
Posted 25 January 2012 - 11:18 AM
#4
Posted 25 January 2012 - 11:57 AM
You should find your master cylinder under your hood just to your right while facing the coach. Gord, I'm not trying to be smart with you but if you are having a hard time finding the master cylinder, might I suggest that you take your coach to good shop and let them flush and refill your brake fluid. (watch what they do and you can learn how to do it the next time yourself) At the same time you might have them look at your brake shoes or pads.
Good Luck and Happy RVing.
Herman & Bobbie Mullins
McKinney, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964
Lone Star Chapter FMCA
Southcentral Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture
#5
Posted 25 January 2012 - 01:07 PM
#6
Posted 25 January 2012 - 10:22 PM
Another point is the DOT rating of the brake fluid. The high the DOT rating the higher the boiling point. DOT 2 (cheap) brake fluid boils at hundreds of degrees less than DOT 5 brake fluid (expensive). The next time you’re at the auto parts store take a look at the brake fluid. The boiling point will be labeled on each can.
#7
Posted 26 January 2012 - 09:36 AM
I am not that familiar with the hydroboost brake system that I suspect he has, that is why I did not speculate on the cause of the pedal goes to the floor.
Brett
Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator, http://www.dieselrvclub.org/(FMCA chapter)
#8
Posted 26 January 2012 - 10:17 AM
Gord I don't know how you approch a steep down hill grade, but down shifting to a lower gear will help.
Herman & Bobbie Mullins
McKinney, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964
Lone Star Chapter FMCA
Southcentral Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture
#9
Posted 26 January 2012 - 11:14 AM
#10
Posted 02 February 2012 - 03:58 PM
#11
Posted 02 February 2012 - 04:01 PM
#12
Posted 03 February 2012 - 07:05 AM
#13
Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:11 AM
Brett
Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator, http://www.dieselrvclub.org/(FMCA chapter)
#14
Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:56 AM
As far as using the DOT 5. DON'T.
The is from the Workhorse Chassis manual that covers P30-P32.
Do not add DOT 5 brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir. DOT 5 fluid is silicon base whereas the correct DOT 3 fluid is Glycol based. The two will not mix and the DOT 5 fluid can cause major damage to the anti-lock brake module and other brake components
Towing 2006 Honda CR-V AWD
Dog, Missy
#15
Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:03 PM
Herman & Bobbie Mullins
McKinney, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964
Lone Star Chapter FMCA
Southcentral Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture
#16
Posted 03 February 2012 - 01:01 PM
#17
Posted 03 February 2012 - 02:34 PM
Your 3116 has a governed RPM of 2600. 2500 is toward the high end, but certainly not over the redline.
I would suspect that your Allison is programmed to NOT allow engine RPM to exceed the 2600 figure.
Are you sure you don't have an exhaust brake? If not, what is your engine serial number. Beginning with engines produced the fall of 1992, the Caterpillar 3116 was fit with stronger exhaust valve springs that allowed the use of a very good exhaust brake.
Generally, the exhaust brake and transmission downshifting work together when the exhaust brake switch is turned on and the throttle is closed.
Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator, http://www.dieselrvclub.org/(FMCA chapter)
#18
Posted 03 February 2012 - 03:23 PM
Since the subject is on Braking, could you give a brief lesson on the types of Exhaust Braking?
Regards
Herman & Bobbie Mullins
McKinney, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964
Lone Star Chapter FMCA
Southcentral Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture
#19
Posted 03 February 2012 - 03:40 PM
The Caterpillar 3116 can be equipped with an exhaust brake, not an engine compression brake (same as Cummins B and C engines-- only large-displacement engines are generally fit with engine compression brakes). Prior to engine production of fall 1992, valve springs would only accommodate a low pressure exhaust brake. After that, they would accommodate a much more robust exhaust brake. Same thing occurred over at Cummins at this same time. That is why I asked for engine serial number.
The exhaust brake is wired through the Allison TCM so that when the exhaust brake switch is ON and throttle closed, two things happen. The transmission begins shifting TOWARD, REPEAT TOWARD the pre-select gear (generally 2nd or 4th but can be any gear you want-- I had mine changed to 5th). It drops one gear at a time as soon as it would not overspeed the engine in that next lower gear. At the same time, the butterfly in the exhaust brake closes, creating back pressure that the engine must work against-- kind of like stuffing a giant potato in the tail pipe.
If, for example you have a 2nd gear pre-select, it does NOT downshift to 2nd if you are at highway speed. And, if you are at a stoplight and look at the shift pad and it says "6" you are not in 6th gear, that is the gear the transmission will shift to as conditions permit.
Here is another discussion on this subject: http://community.fmc...ke-vs-retarder/
Brett
Dianne and Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
Moderator, FMCA.com Forums
Chairman, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Member, FMCA Long-Range and Development Committee 2007-2009
Moderator, http://www.dieselrvclub.org/(FMCA chapter)
#20
Posted 03 February 2012 - 04:18 PM
Herman & Bobbie Mullins
McKinney, TEXAS
F302225
'02 Monaco Dynasty
40 ft 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
US Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964
Lone Star Chapter FMCA
Southcentral Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: brakes hot, breaking on incline, braking going downhill, engine brake
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