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Roof Replacement?!


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23 replies to this topic

#1 IgorP

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 06:00 PM

Hi,

Today we have been to a Camping Word service center and it was suggested that we replace the roof on our Fleetwood 2000 36T. The service man was concerned about edge where the roof is connected with the coach.

Honestly speaking, I don't like this ether - it seems cracked and there is definitely may be the leak. But I thought that the solution may be just recoating or proper sealing, but not the whole roof replacement... Does anyone have replaced the roof on his coach? Or may be someone may recommend any good roofing specialist in South or Central Florida area (to have the second opinion)?
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#2 desertdeals69

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 10:51 PM

What kind of roof is it, rubber, fiberglass,metal?
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#3 Allegiance40x

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 07:56 AM

Replacing a roof is major surgery, I'd sure get that second...and maybe third...opinion. Most roofs can be repaired.
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#4 hermanmullins

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 09:44 AM

10-4 on the MAJOR Surgery. The rubber roof is the easiest to replace. But no matter what kind of roof you have, Every Thing and I mean Every Thing on the roof must be removed and then put back on. As 40X said get more opinions and most can be repaired.

Herman
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#5 IgorP

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 09:48 AM

What kind of roof is it, rubber, fiberglass,metal?

Sorry, I did not mention it. This is a rubber roof.
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Igor
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#6 desertdeals69

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 04:38 PM

I replaced my rubber roof last spring before I had my coach painted. Other than being a little time consuming it wasn't that big a deal. I did the job in my garage. The roof airs were the biggest problem to solve. I undid the mounting and suspended them with ropes from the garage trusses and let them hang above my head. Dicor suggest after pulling the old rubber off that the surface be sheeted with 1/8 inch lujan which I did. The job was easier than I thought it would be, just took longer. My roof was 19 years old so I got more than my money out of it.
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#7 hermanmullins

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 04:48 PM

dd69, did you hit your head many time on the AC units?

Herman
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"Fair winds and Following Seas"

Herman & Bobbie Mullins, F302225
Whitewright, TEXAS
'02 Monaco Dynasty, 40-foot 400 HP ISL
Chevrolet Silverado (M & G air brakes)
U.S. Navy PR-3 1956 to 1964

Southern Region Vice President for Six-State Rally Association
Lone Star Chapter FMCA Past President
South Central Lucky Rollers
Rally in The Pasture


#8 desertdeals69

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 09:25 PM

I did a lot of crawling on my hands and knees, with knee pads. You have to pay attention to what you are doing when you are high in the air!
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#9 IgorP

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 10:09 AM

I replaced my rubber roof last spring before I had my coach painted.

Impressive! And how much time did it take?
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#10 bsinmich

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 09:11 AM

On my previous '96 Fleetwood Pace I used Eternabond around the entire roof line where it met the side trim. I did this before any leaks because I knew they were susceptible to leaking there. I never had a problem with a leak. Would that work for you? I used 4" wide.
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#11 desertdeals69

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 09:44 AM

Impressive! And how much time did it take?

It took less than a week, working 4 to 6 hours a day. I did it alone and it would have been much easier if I had someone else to help me. The video showed 2 guys, one on each side with scaffolding unrolling the new rubber, and of course they did it in a matter of minutes. I started at one end and spread glue across about a foot for and aft and then rolled the new material that distance and then repeated the process.
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#12 IgorP

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 08:53 PM

On my previous '96 Fleetwood Pace I used Eternabond around the entire roof line where it met the side trim. I did this before any leaks because I knew they were susceptible to leaking there. I never had a problem with a leak. Would that work for you? I used 4" wide.

That is a good idea, thank you!
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#13 WILDEBILL308

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 01:26 PM

I would look at top coating your roof and re doing the seams. There are several You tube videos showing how to do it. I bet it would be cheaper than Camping World.



Bill
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#14 taylor5

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 11:33 AM

I would look at top coating your roof and re doing the seams. There are several You tube videos showing how to do it. I bet it would be cheaper than Camping World.



Bill

Thanks for the video. It still looks daunting either way. What does Camping World charge for the repair?
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#15 WILDEBILL308

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 09:11 PM

I don't know how much Camping World would charge perhaps you can call them and find out. I don't know your level of ability or experience. The biggest thing would be doing a good prep and cleaning of the surface before you put on the coating. The rubber coating material would fill all the cracks and voids and stop any leaks. Most leaks are at the edge seams or any penetration in the roof. Like I said prep is the big thing.
Bill
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2003 Bounder 38N
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Allison 3000MH tran.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a blue Ox tow bar

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.

-Mark Twain-

 


#16 IgorP

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 10:52 PM

What does Camping World charge for the repair?

The estimation for Fleetwood 2000 36T was : 63 hours of labor (it is about 7300$), plus the cost of the materials. The total was about 9K - the price that I am definitely not willing to pay out of my own pocket :-)
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#17 desertdeals69

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 09:58 AM

My cost for materials was less than $700. I bought the Dicor material and their installation kit plus 8 sheets of lujan(1/8 plywood). It just takes time but not much skill. My coach is 32 foot.
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#18 desertdeals69

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 02:15 PM

The estimation for Fleetwood 2000 36T was : 63 hours of labor (it is about 7300$), plus the cost of the materials. The total was about 9K - the price that I am definitely not willing to pay out of my own pocket :-)

Its amazing when you get paid by the hour how long you can drag it out.
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#19 charles10

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 06:15 PM

I routinely get on our rubber roof and caulk, etc around vents and a/cs.  It seems that about 2 years is as long as the Dicor caulking lasts before cracking in this Texas heat .  I tried the wonderful seam tape,  it also worked for several years and is now cracking and acting like Duct tape. This tape is great if it does not see daylight.

 

 

I found a "Liquid Roof" product on the internet made by Advanced Rubber Products.  Sure sounds good,   stats  say that it can withstand heat to 300 and is o.k. with freezing, my body no longer enjoys crawling around on the roof, am getting to old for it.

 

We have had good luck with Camping World  around here, their service has always been good  but  Katy and New Braunfels, Texas it is a long wait to get service. I prefer to do what I can myself.

 

Has anyone tried this "Liquid Roof"?


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#20 PatrioticStabilist

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 10:11 AM

My husband and I have a 1992 American Eagle, only had it a couple of years but we knew it had leaked so number one was put it under the motorhome port built for our other one.  We removed everything but were having new ACs put on it too so didn't worry about them.  Also I ordered all new skylights and MaxxAirs as they were in sad condition.  We ordered the rubber roof coating, but you have to make sure what type of rubber roof you have.  We found for ours we had to get the primer coat and put it on.  That wasn't to much work.  The real work is in the prep and cleaning. 

 

The Liquid Roof is really really thick, it has a catalyst you mix and we had to use a big paint mixer paddle on our drill.  Also it said what the drying time was, but it was drying faster.  We started early one morning and worked till after dark, you only put on one thick coat and you spread it with a squeegy.  I had a brush going along the sides of the roof.  We also taped at the gutter there down to keep drips off the sides. The stuff is supposed to be waterproof before it even dries.

 

During the night a wind came up and blew some of the plastic on the top but I was able to get it off without much problem.  It takes several days for it to cure.  We were worried that it wasn't going to dry, but it did and its a hard bond that washes and cleans good.  We still had some moisture in the back bedroom so I got my handyman to caulk around both end caps and under the metal railings on the side and just everywhere.  I went around all the skylights again.  In fact I put all the skylights myself, quite a job.

 

But I think our total outlay was about $1400 with buying the primer, coating and the skylights were near $700 for them.  But a far cry from what others would charge.  However, our roof was crazed but we went over ever inch and there was nothing soft anyplace so we didn't have to replace any material.  If it ever needs done again we think we would put on a new roof.  We now have a motorhome garage so with it being protected I can't see it needing it in the years we will be using it.  It's a very very good product.


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