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IgorP

Roof Replacement?!

24 posts in this topic

Hi,

Today we have been to a Camping Word service center and it was suggested that we replace the roof on our Fleetwood 2000 36T. The service man was concerned about edge where the roof is connected with the coach.

Honestly speaking, I don't like this ether - it seems cracked and there is definitely may be the leak. But I thought that the solution may be just recoating or proper sealing, but not the whole roof replacement... Does anyone have replaced the roof on his coach? Or may be someone may recommend any good roofing specialist in South or Central Florida area (to have the second opinion)?

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Replacing a roof is major surgery, I'd sure get that second...and maybe third...opinion. Most roofs can be repaired.

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10-4 on the MAJOR Surgery. The rubber roof is the easiest to replace. But no matter what kind of roof you have, Every Thing and I mean Every Thing on the roof must be removed and then put back on. As 40X said get more opinions and most can be repaired.

Herman

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What kind of roof is it, rubber, fiberglass,metal?

Sorry, I did not mention it. This is a rubber roof.

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I replaced my rubber roof last spring before I had my coach painted. Other than being a little time consuming it wasn't that big a deal. I did the job in my garage. The roof airs were the biggest problem to solve. I undid the mounting and suspended them with ropes from the garage trusses and let them hang above my head. Dicor suggest after pulling the old rubber off that the surface be sheeted with 1/8 inch lujan which I did. The job was easier than I thought it would be, just took longer. My roof was 19 years old so I got more than my money out of it.

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I did a lot of crawling on my hands and knees, with knee pads. You have to pay attention to what you are doing when you are high in the air!

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I replaced my rubber roof last spring before I had my coach painted.

Impressive! And how much time did it take?

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On my previous '96 Fleetwood Pace I used Eternabond around the entire roof line where it met the side trim. I did this before any leaks because I knew they were susceptible to leaking there. I never had a problem with a leak. Would that work for you? I used 4" wide.

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Impressive! And how much time did it take?

It took less than a week, working 4 to 6 hours a day. I did it alone and it would have been much easier if I had someone else to help me. The video showed 2 guys, one on each side with scaffolding unrolling the new rubber, and of course they did it in a matter of minutes. I started at one end and spread glue across about a foot for and aft and then rolled the new material that distance and then repeated the process.

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On my previous '96 Fleetwood Pace I used Eternabond around the entire roof line where it met the side trim. I did this before any leaks because I knew they were susceptible to leaking there. I never had a problem with a leak. Would that work for you? I used 4" wide.

That is a good idea, thank you!

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I would look at top coating your roof and re doing the seams. There are several You tube videos showing how to do it. I bet it would be cheaper than Camping World.

Bill

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I would look at top coating your roof and re doing the seams. There are several You tube videos showing how to do it. I bet it would be cheaper than Camping World.

Bill

Thanks for the video. It still looks daunting either way. What does Camping World charge for the repair?

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I don't know how much Camping World would charge perhaps you can call them and find out. I don't know your level of ability or experience. The biggest thing would be doing a good prep and cleaning of the surface before you put on the coating. The rubber coating material would fill all the cracks and voids and stop any leaks. Most leaks are at the edge seams or any penetration in the roof. Like I said prep is the big thing.

Bill

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What does Camping World charge for the repair?

The estimation for Fleetwood 2000 36T was : 63 hours of labor (it is about 7300$), plus the cost of the materials. The total was about 9K - the price that I am definitely not willing to pay out of my own pocket :-)

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My cost for materials was less than $700. I bought the Dicor material and their installation kit plus 8 sheets of lujan(1/8 plywood). It just takes time but not much skill. My coach is 32 foot.

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The estimation for Fleetwood 2000 36T was : 63 hours of labor (it is about 7300$), plus the cost of the materials. The total was about 9K - the price that I am definitely not willing to pay out of my own pocket :-)

Its amazing when you get paid by the hour how long you can drag it out.

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I routinely get on our rubber roof and caulk, etc around vents and a/cs. It seems that about 2 years is as long as the Dicor caulking lasts before cracking in this Texas heat . I tried the wonderful seam tape, it also worked for several years and is now cracking and acting like Duct tape. This tape is great if it does not see daylight.

I found a "Liquid Roof" product on the internet made by Advanced Rubber Products. Sure sounds good, stats say that it can withstand heat to 300 and is o.k. with freezing, my body no longer enjoys crawling around on the roof, am getting to old for it.

We have had good luck with Camping World around here, their service has always been good but Katy and New Braunfels, Texas it is a long wait to get service. I prefer to do what I can myself.

Has anyone tried this "Liquid Roof"?

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My husband and I have a 1992 American Eagle, only had it a couple of years but we knew it had leaked so number one was put it under the motorhome port built for our other one. We removed everything but were having new ACs put on it too so didn't worry about them. Also I ordered all new skylights and MaxxAirs as they were in sad condition. We ordered the rubber roof coating, but you have to make sure what type of rubber roof you have. We found for ours we had to get the primer coat and put it on. That wasn't to much work. The real work is in the prep and cleaning.

The Liquid Roof is really really thick, it has a catalyst you mix and we had to use a big paint mixer paddle on our drill. Also it said what the drying time was, but it was drying faster. We started early one morning and worked till after dark, you only put on one thick coat and you spread it with a squeegy. I had a brush going along the sides of the roof. We also taped at the gutter there down to keep drips off the sides. The stuff is supposed to be waterproof before it even dries.

During the night a wind came up and blew some of the plastic on the top but I was able to get it off without much problem. It takes several days for it to cure. We were worried that it wasn't going to dry, but it did and its a hard bond that washes and cleans good. We still had some moisture in the back bedroom so I got my handyman to caulk around both end caps and under the metal railings on the side and just everywhere. I went around all the skylights again. In fact I put all the skylights myself, quite a job.

But I think our total outlay was about $1400 with buying the primer, coating and the skylights were near $700 for them. But a far cry from what others would charge. However, our roof was crazed but we went over ever inch and there was nothing soft anyplace so we didn't have to replace any material. If it ever needs done again we think we would put on a new roof. We now have a motorhome garage so with it being protected I can't see it needing it in the years we will be using it. It's a very very good product.

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Sorry didn't introduce myself, I'm Carolyn, I post mostly on another RV forum and read here. This is my 3rd motorhome.

Started with an 1980's small class C that I was terrified to drive, it was only 20 something long. Then got a class A Winnie 2007, 29 ft

long and was scared again but hubby added a tow car. I would drive around on Sundays north of Houston to get comfortable. But I wanted a washer and dryer and more room after DD (she is 41 and mentally challenged, has Williams Syndrone), but a great companion, and I had been about 20k miles in it. We didn't feel we could spend the amount to get one of the new beauties so we found the old 92 American Eagle as it had what I wanted. We have a bathtub that DD wanted, a w/d, I just had a new one put in couple weeks back, WONDERFUL. Also has a stand alone icemaker that I use constantly. We have 2 furnaces, 2 ac's, corian countertops, tile in the bathroom, hardwood in the kitchen and the couches and chairs are leather. It's old but I love it, and I gave up slides too. It's 38 or 39 ft but I drive it and tow. I've driven it about 5000 miles. There are things we are still fixing on it but all the systems work. Right now we are in Sherwood Forest in Kissimmee, Florida for another week. Have to head back to Indiana on the 4th, then back to Houston after there for a few days. We are selling our Houston home and moving back near our hometown after being gone for 30 years. I think we will spend at least 3 months in the winter in Florida though. And my husband hopes to work another year or two before hanging it up.

So that's my story and I'm stickin' to it!

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You should repair your roof its better than replacement. Use Liquid rubber roof coating for better results I have a good experience about this. I read about Liquid Rubber in some online discussions, so I had some thought of what sort of exertion this venture might take.

Fluid Rubber is a two part item incorporating the base and an impetus. To blend it, you require a substantial blending wand and a decently compelling 3/8 or 1/2 inch drill. The material is thick, MUCH thicker than paint. I utilized my 3/8 inch Dewalt cordless, and it experienced both electric cell packs in the 10 minutes of blending! So when you do this task, be ready with electric cells charged or even more terrific, utilize a module drill.

Fluid Rubber is a two part item incorporating the base and a stimulator. To blend it, you require a huge blending wand and a honestly effective 3/8 or 1/2 inch drill. The material is thick, MUCH thicker than paint. I utilized my 3/8 inch Dewalt cordless, and it experienced both electric cell packs in the 10 minutes of blending! So when you do this task, be ready with electric cells charged or even more terrific, utilize a module drill. In the wake of blending with the stimulator, the item might be worked for something like 4 to 5 prior hours it sets up, so we would have been wise to finish everything pronto. I utilized a mixture of 5 inch putty blade, paintbrush, and paint roller to apply the material.

For more see this it will help you http://www.epdmcoatings.com/liquid-rubber.html

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I also used the liquid rubber and it worked great. It has been 4 years with no issues. I figure even if I recoated every 6+ years $500 is cheap fix.

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kgorP,

There is another post discussing RV-Armor.com. Looks like the cost is $100 per foot and it is installed by factory personnel if no dealer is close. They advertise the product is guaranteed for the life of the unit. Might be good to check out.

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