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Trac Bar to Keep Motorhome Straight - Front or Rear?

Workhorse 24 chassis 2007 Pace Arrow 36D trac bars steering stabilizer anti-sway bars

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#1 daffy

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 07:06 PM

I am thinking of installing a track bar to solve a problem with play in the steering wheel. I FIGHT TO KEEP THE COACH IN A STAIGHT LINE.

I have the tire pressure correct, checked the front-end alignment, added front and rear Roadmaster sway bars and also a Roadmaster steering stabilizer.

 

My next try is to install a trac bar, but would this problem be solved with a front trac bar or a rear trac bar?

 

Thanks for any help on this.


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#2 wolfe10

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 07:24 PM

Daffy,

 

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

 

Please tell us what chassis you have. 

 

How many miles on it?

 

Have you checked front suspension parts for wear/play?

 

Has your steering box been adjusted (some are not adjustable)?


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#3 daffy

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 07:38 PM

It is a Workhorse W24 chassis, 2007 Pace Arrow 36D, has only 17,000 miles on it. Bought it several months ago and now I see why they got rid of it..... 

When I was at the alignment shop they told me that the steering box could not be tighten up. They told me everything up front looked pretty good. According to the tech. 


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#4 DickandLois

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 08:10 PM

Daffy,

 

I had a similar problem on a different chassis years back! It was almost impossible to keep on the road.

 

The big problem was in the front king pins(Ball Joint Area). Once it was rebuilt it went down the road much better.

 

With only 17k miles on it they should be covered under warranty, I would think. 

 

Mine was rebuilt with less the 10k on it, but I had to fight to get them to believe me.

 

Rich.


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#5 dwightginnyputzke

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 01:03 AM

Daffy

Welcome to the forum.

It is optional but It really helps if you automatically add your motorhome discription to your posts. 

 

You have about the longest wheel base and overall length of a gasoline chassis without having the stability of a second rear axle.  The amount of motorhome behind your rear axle is putting you in the position of "the tail wagging the dog".  When a semi-tractor trailer starts to pass you will receive a side air push on the back left side that will cause the front of your motorhome to go toward the centerline of the highway. As he moves up along side of you the wind push reverses with the back left side in a negative pressure and your front now has the air push moving your front to the right.  The similar effect takes place when driving with the wind blowing sidways to your travel direction. 

 

When I added the Davis TruTrac bar to the front axle of my 36' Ford Bounder it was an improvement.  Several years later I added a Henderson? rear axle trac bar and noted the difference immeadiatey.  My vote is for the front and rear axle track bars on your motorhome with the long rear overhang.  The front axle track bar will also be a benefit in case of a front tire blowout.

 

As a side note, the sway bars make the greatest difference for sideway rocking which is not your described problem.  The spring loaded tie rod stabilizer may give you some steering benefit.

My seat of my pants evaluation, Dwight


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Dwight & Ginny Putzke F 513s -1995 Bounder 35U - F53 460 7.5L - Subaru Forester - NSA ReadyBrake Elite Tow-bar Cold Spring, Minnesota - Retired School Bus Fleet Owner - Marco / Polo White Schnauzers
F513 - 1941 Flxible 19 Pass Bus 3/4 wide - Chevrolet FE 232 - 3 speed =Converted To M/H 1952 - 1966 Updated = Raised Roof 1' - Chevrolet FE 292 & 1965 Allison MT30 6 Speed w/Retarder

#6 daffy

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 09:52 AM

Thanks Dwight...I think I will try a rear trac bar first.  Dave


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#7 daffy

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 09:54 AM

Daffy,

 

I had a similar problem on a different chassis years back! It was almost impossible to keep on the road.

 

The big problem was in the front king pins(Ball Joint Area). Once it was rebuilt it went down the road much better.

 

With only 17k miles on it they should be covered under warranty, I would think. 

 

Mine was rebuilt with less the 10k on it, but I had to fight to get them to believe me.

 

Rich.

I will look into that to see what I can do...Thanks


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#8 wwells

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 09:47 AM

Daffy,

I think you are on the correct path I would start with the rear TracBar and work from there.

 

If that doesn't correct all of the wandering then add a front TracBar, everything you have done to this point are good upgrades for the Workhorse chassis.Hope this helps.

 

Wayne


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#9 wolfe10

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 10:34 AM

FYI, Wayne is the chief designer for Roadmaster Inc. 


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#10 daffy

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 10:35 AM

Thanks...Now to determine which brand to get.....I image they all do the same job.


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#11 cmarq

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 08:47 AM

I had the same problem on my 2003 Pace Arrow 37G, Workhorse chassis. I made my own trac bar there are several plans on Omeys web site.  I used a top link for a 3 point tractor hitch. $35.00 from tractor supply.  I had the steel to build the rest. The first trip out I could not believe the difference.  Omeys has so much info on Workhorse, check it out.  The price I got for a mfg trac bar was $550.00 plus installation.


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#12 daffy

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 02:24 PM

I had the same problem on my 2003 Pace Arrow 37G, Workhorse chassis. I made my own trac bar there are several plans on Omeys web site.  I used a top link for a 3 point tractor hitch. $35.00 from tractor supply.  I had the steel to build the rest. The first trip out I could not believe the difference.  Omeys has so much info on Workhorse, check it out.  The price I got for a mfg trac bar was $550.00 plus installation.

Thanks...I'll check out that website.


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