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Steering/ Suspension/ etc.


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#1 djordan1677

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 05:34 PM

** DECISION TIME** Can someone help me with my decision. I have a 2003 Monaco Monarch SE36 on a Workorse W 22 chassis, Chevy motor and Allison trans and 22 inch tires; coach has 11,500 miles.

 

 I'm ready to start my suspension upgrade. Sway bars front and rear (Hellwig, Roadmaster or Blue Ox), steering stabilizer (Safe T Plus, Steer Safe, Roadmaster or Blue Ox), steering bell crank (super steer) shocks (Koni or ?). Not sure what I should bundle together for the right ride. While driving you constantly have to move steering wheel to keep steady and it does sway for wind and trucks. The bounce not bad but could be better. Would appreciate your help.

 

Also what's the best place for pricing.

 

Thank You Dennis


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#2 wolfe10

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 06:57 PM

OK, in order, here is what I would do:

 

Set tire pressure per tire manufacturer's recommendation based on actual weight.

 

Check and replace any sway bar bushings that are not 100%

 

Check shocks-- don't automatically replace.  Drive over parking lot speed bumps at normal/low speed.  If an axle bounces more than 1.5 times, shocks need replacing. If it doesn't bounce more than 3/4 of a cycle, they are too stiff.

 

Get an alignment by a good truck shop that  will set caster toward max of specs and verify correct toe-in.

 

Track bars (aka panhard rods) front and rear.

 

STOP and evaluate results. Let us know symptoms at this point and we can help spend your money.

 

Brett


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#3 djordan1677

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 08:49 PM

Thanks Brett, tire pressure is good and tires are new; will check shocks tomorrow. Alignment seems to be good doesn't pull either way. Just took it out two weeks ago approx 3 hours each way. It drove good except steering wheel movement "back and fourth" but not a killer. Other than the wind. Going underneath bridge good but coming out "did not like" immediate shifted sideways. My coach does not any sway bar at all "front or rear". Whats better in your opinion (track bar or sway bar). Dennis 


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#4 wolfe10

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 09:21 PM

Actually sufficient caster and proper toe-in make a significant difference in tracking.

 

And, for your complaint, I would start with track bars. If you are not familiar with them, here is what they do: Those long leaf springs and the shackles allow side to side movement of axle  to chassis.  When side winds, bumps, etc cause this to happen, it IS a steering input.  This requires you to make a steering input to correct. 

 

A track bar (aka Panhard rod) allows for full vertical movement between axle and chassis, but substantially minimizes side to side movement between them.


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#5 JERRYLY

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 12:42 PM

Best Steering Stabilizer for Blowouts.

 

There are many Steering Stabilizers on the market. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions as to which would be the best for blowouts.

 

Bilstein has a stabilizer which is much cheaper than all the other stabilizers but will it provide the safety that other stabilizers offer.

 

Thanks

 

Jerry


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#6 wolfe10

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 01:21 PM

Jerry,

 

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

 

Please tell us what chassis you have so answers can be more tailored to what you are driving.  What works best on a Chevy P chassis would not be particularly relevant if you have a diesel pusher.

 

And, there are two features I look for in a stabilizer:  dampening (important if you have a blow out) AND "return to center", particularly on larger coaches where releasing the steering wheel after a corner still requires you to "unwind" the wheel.  I like a combination of positive caster and stabilizer/dampener that return the wheel after a corner when the wheel is released.

 

BTW, I am happy with the Safe T Plus on my diesel pusher-- provides both functions and is well built.  Put over 150,000 miles on last coach (also a DP) with the Safe T Plus with no issues before we sold it.


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#7 JERRYLY

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 01:32 PM

I have a 2006 Damon Challenger 355F on a F53 Ford Chassis.

Thanks

Jerry


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#8 rhmartinelli

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 09:21 PM

Hello Brett, I'm a new member and I'm reading a lot of information about steering control. I just bought a 2004 Winnebago 30B workhorse W22 I believe with Chevy 454 / Allison Trany. I could not keep it in the lane. Constantly adjusting left and right. Is what you offer Dennis good for my MH too?

Marty


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#9 wolfe10

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Posted 14 June 2015 - 07:59 AM

Marty,

 

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

 

Yes, a rear track bar/panhard rod would be a good addition to your W chassis. 

 

BTW, you have a 496 CID/8.1 liter engine.


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#10 jimlavagent

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 09:22 PM

Wolfe 10, I am new to the forum and not sure how to ask a question. I am buying a 2005 Newmar Mountain Aire Gas and the owner just added new tires and when I test drive the unit we heard a grinding sound more pronounced on right turns but there on lefts. Was even noticeable with slight adjustments to wheel. Steers good and appears solid but looking for ideas on the new grinding sound. The unit has not been driven more than 100 miles in last 6 years. Owners said it did not do it on way to tire shop yesterday and I never heard it when I drove the unit two weeks ago. Any suggestions?He is taking it back to tire store tomorrow.


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#11 wolfe10

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Posted 14 August 2015 - 07:43 AM

Jim,

 

Hard to diagnose over the internet, but having not been driven for that long opens up a lot of possibilities such as "front end has not been greased for 6 years, rubber bushings dried out, etc" in addition to some actual issue related to the tire install.


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#12 jimlavagent

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Posted 16 August 2015 - 08:32 AM

Thanks for reply.Tire dealer recommended turning wheel all the way left and then right ten times to get air out of power steering lines. It worked.
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#13 jleamont

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Posted 16 August 2015 - 06:35 PM

Jim, I would be concerned with how the air was introduced? This is common if the front tires were in the air and someone manually steered the coach by the wheels with the engine off. There is actually a tool to suck the air out of the power steering system when this occurs, usually only after a repair is made or like I mentioned above it was manually steered at the wheel end. If it happens again you might want to look at the system and check for leaks In the system, perhaps it's introducing air into the system?
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