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RV Tires vs. Truck Tires


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#21 hermanmullins

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 09:43 AM

Hey, this is REALLY good stuff. We purchased our RV new, but it had sat on a lot for over a year. Should I expect there to be any substantial damage to the tires from just sitting? It's a Damon Essence 40ft/built on a Freightliner chassis with a Cummins 425 Diesel and an Allison 6 tranny. My tires are H rated Goodyears and after weighing the coach, it appears I need 80psi in the front 2 and 85 psi in the back 4. From what I'm reading, we aren't anywhere near the load limits of these tires.

There is so much stuff out there that seems to be hype.......tyron bands for blowout control (1,995 a pair), remote pressure sensors, Nitrogen inflation instead of straight Air.......

Seems to me one really needs to keep the tire pressure at the right levels and check each day before driving.....Inspect them monthly for deterioration......easy to do while you're "exercising" your generator under load.

I don't see any advantage to using Nitrogen......which is simply not available everywhere......

I can possibly see where the remote sensors are valuable.......but are an expensive technology that is subject to faulty readings.

Yes there is a lot of valuable info on this subject. As for the sensors, I'm not sold on them yet. In the summer I have checked my tire pressure in the morning. I have my fronts at 90 psi and the rears at 95psi. Later in the day after several hours of driving I checked them again all were 120 to 125 psi due to the heat. Sensors on cars only have a very small window of difference before they send a warning, as I understand. I don't know about the after market units.

As for Nitrogen, race cars use nitrogen in their tires because it is not effected by heat. So if you have your RV tires filled with nitrogen you will have the same smooth ride all the time. However it is expensive to have your tires filled with nitrogen and there are not many places to have then filled or added to. You can go to your local Welding Supply store, purchase a Nitrogen cylinder (very heavy) for about $300.00 and a regulater for about $100.00, have a long air hose (50 Ft.) and you can service your tires yourself. Oh you also have to find a place in the coach to carry the cylinder and you have to take it to a W/S store to swap it out.

So from this post I know that truck tires are OK for an RV. Recaps are not good. Sensor are up in the air. Nitrogen is expensive. And we all love our RVs and care about their shoes.

Man I love this forum.
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#22 wolfe10

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 10:23 AM

As for Nitrogen, race cars use nitrogen in their tires because it is not effected by heat. So if you have your RV tires filled with nitrogen you will have the same smooth ride all the time. However it is expensive to have your tires filled with nitrogen and there are not many places to have then filled or added to. You can go to your local Welding Supply store, purchase a Nitrogen cylinder (very heavy) for about $300.00 and a regulator for about $100.00, have a long air hose (50 Ft.) and you can service your tires yourself. Oh you also have to find a place in the coach to carry the cylinder and you have to take it to a W/S store to swap it out.

Let me correct some of the misunderstandings out there about the use of Nitrogen in tires.

Let's start by looking at the options for inflating tires:

1. Nitrogen
2. DRY air
3. "Normal" WET air

There is virtually no difference between Nitrogen and dry air when it comes to PSI change with temperature change. Both follow Boyles law (Physics is physics, irrespective of what sales literature says).

Now, wet air (like from any air compressor without a dryer) is a very different matter. And most air from those convenience store coin op compressors is WET. Water is clearly not an "ideal gas" and PSI changes more with temperature than for a gas.

Nitrogen molecules average very slightly larger than "air" (which is 78% Nitrogen anyway), so leakage will be slightly less.

Nitrogen is not reactive so filling a tire with it will be slightly better for the tire and rim than air which has Oxygen which will deteriorate the tire. But most tire oxidation/cracking occurs from the outside of the tire. Clearly, wet air is much worse.

My opionion-- Nitrogen is slightly better than dry air for your RV tires. Dry air or Nitrogen are both a LOT better than regular "wet" air from those 7-11 coin operated compressors.

Whether Nitrogen is worth it is up to your budget and what you will have to pay. If you are a welder and have it in your shop, great idea.

Brett Wolfe
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#23 twalton@povn.com

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 01:34 PM

Hello All,

I use Acu-Pressure saftey caps on all six tires and I have a laser thermometer that I use to chek tire temperature and I check them all when ever I stop. While it's not as good as electronic monitoring, it's better than nothing, and at $8.95 per tire they are very affordable. The only downside is that they are only available in 5lb increments, which works for me since I run all my tires at 90lbs. If it were 92 they wouldn't work. They are available online at http://www.accu-pres...e...5088&pid=16
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#24 TBUTLER

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 06:44 PM

Hey, this is REALLY good stuff. We purchased our RV new, but it had sat on a lot for over a year. Should I expect there to be any substantial damage to the tires from just sitting? It's a Damon Essence 40ft/built on a Freightliner chassis with a Cummins 425 Diesel and an Allison 6 tranny. My tires are H rated Goodyears and after weighing the coach, it appears I need 80psi in the front 2 and 85 psi in the back 4. From what I'm reading, we aren't anywhere near the load limits of these tires.

There is so much stuff out there that seems to be hype.......tyron bands for blowout control (1,995 a pair), remote pressure sensors, Nitrogen inflation instead of straight Air.......

Seems to me one really needs to keep the tire pressure at the right levels and check each day before driving.....Inspect them monthly for deterioration......easy to do while you're "exercising" your generator under load.

I don't see any advantage to using Nitrogen......which is simply not available everywhere......

I can possibly see where the remote sensors are valuable.......but are an expensive technology that is subject to faulty readings.

To answer your question about the life of the tires on your new Damon. There is a discussion topic on tire age that has information on how to read the date of manufacture on your tires. Every tire and safety expert I have heard or read says seven years is the life of a tire. After that, the tire becomes unsafe. Check the date of manufacture stamped on your tires and you will know how old they are and when they will need to be replaced. This advice/information also applies to "brand new tires" you purchase at a tire shop. The seven years start at the factory. If the tires have set on the shelf at the dealer for a year, they have six remaining good years of use in them. Check the "new tires" you get to be sure they are "new." It isn't so much damage to the tires as it is aging of the material in the tire that is getting them from time of manufacture on. Once manufactured they begin to slowly lose strength.
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#25 skyking8

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 08:11 PM

I will echo the comment of a couple of other posters. This is good stuff. For future reference, I am bookmarking some of the URL sites given. I especially appreciate knowing that "truck tires" are an option. My rig is seven years old with 60K original tires which are Michelin. I have plenty of tread and the sidewall condition appears in good shape, but I am still going to get them inspected as has been suggested.

I had recently considered replacing the tires based on some suggestions that it was wise to do so at about the 5 year mark. Now, I'm taking a page out of the Michelin manual where it states: While most tires will need replacement before they achieve 10 years, it is recommended that any tires in service 10 years or more from the date of manufacture, including spare tires, be replaced with new tires as a simple precaution even if such tires appear serviceable and even if they have not reached the legal wear limit.

I'm for common sense safety and would never put money over personal protection, but I emphasis common sense. When there is a two grand or more price tag associated with discarding what appears to be perfectly good tires, which I have maintained well, I call time out. It's kind of like discarding six phile mignon steaks because they are a bit past the sell by date.
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#26 twalton@povn.com

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 11:02 PM

Something else I should mention is that I use 303 Aerospace protectant on my tires. It is not petroleum based and is SPF 40 for your stuff. http://www.303products.com/
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#27 wmpbauer

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 09:21 PM

Which of the PSI sensor systems are recommended? Which to be avoided at all costs?

Do you install them for all 10 wheels?.......that seems the only way to do it if you're going to do it at all......
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#28 mlwoodward

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 02:02 PM

We recently purchased an '06 Newmar Mountain Aire. The tires are beginning to show some checking. The tires are Michelins that were made in the 3005 so we're going to replace them in the next few weeks before we take another a trip that will probably last 6+ weeks. We were going to go with Michelins but after reading what you all have said will probably go with Toyo. Our RV dealer is highly recommending the "Tryon". I only recall seeing it mentioned once in all of the replys ... will it do what its manufacturer (and our dealer) market it to do or is this marketing hype??? Does anyone have any experience or knowledge regarding the Tyron??
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#29 wolfe10

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 02:13 PM

We recently purchased an '06 Newmar Mountain Aire. The tires are beginning to show some checking. The tires are Michelins that were made in the 3005 so we're going to replace them in the next few weeks before we take another a trip that will probably last 6+ weeks. We were going to go with Michelins but after reading what you all have said will probably go with Toyo. Our RV dealer is highly recommending the "Tryon". I only recall seeing it mentioned once in all of the replys ... will it do what its manufacturer (and our dealer) market it to do or is this marketing hype??? Does anyone have any experience or knowledge regarding the Tyron??

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

Not familiar with Tyron brand tires, and Googling came up with nothing. Or is Tryon your RV dealer's nickname for Toyo??????.

And, what size tire do you need?
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#30 TONYLACEY

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Posted 20 July 2011 - 12:17 PM

Gentlemen,

After reviewing some of your post I plead with you please do your research before you spend a dime on anything that has to do with a tire. I am a tire dealer Georgia and have developed a Love for the RV/Coach business I attended the FMCA rally in Perry and plan to attend more. All that being said, there are a TON of aftermarket products on the market that are pitched at coach owners by scare tactics etc. I am a Michelin Dealer and do recommend the Michelin tire for your coach and can answer any questions that you may have regarding why.

But from a guy that will sell you anything that you want, know this: the three most important things that have to do with your tires are air pressure, Air Pressure, AIR PRESSURE!!!

Regardless of which tire that you have or decide to go with if you maintain the air pressure in the tire based on the tire manufactures specifications for the load (NOT MAX PSI) which is what is on the sidewall of the tire, it will increase your overall performance and your overall satisfaction.

Lastly if you are planning on purchasing tires within the next two weeks, you may want to stand by for a Very Special announcement!
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#31 tmoning

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Posted 20 July 2011 - 03:50 PM

Lastly if you are planning on purchasing tires within the next two weeks, you may want to stand by for a Very Special announcement!

The announcement to which Tony is referring is the new FMCA Michelin Advantage Program, which allows FMCA members to claim substantial discounts on Michelin RV tires from Micheline tire dealers. Here is the link for more info:

FMCA Michelin Advantage Program
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#32 Tireman9

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 10:02 PM

Let me correct some of the misunderstandings out there about the use of Nitrogen in tires.

Let's start by looking at the options for inflating tires:

1. Nitrogen
2. DRY air
3. "Normal" WET air

There is virtually no difference between Nitrogen and dry air when it comes to PSI change with temperature change. Both follow Boyles law (Physics is physics, irrespective of what sales literature says).

Now, wet air (like from any air compressor without a dryer) is a very different matter. And most air from those convenience store coin op compressors is WET. Water is clearly not an "ideal gas" and PSI changes more with temperature than for a gas.

Nitrogen molecules average very slightly larger than "air" (which is 78% Nitrogen anyway), so leakage will be slightly less.

Nitrogen is not reactive so filling a tire with it will be slightly better for the tire and rim than air which has Oxygen which will deteriorate the tire. But most tire oxidation/cracking occurs from the outside of the tire. Clearly, wet air is much worse.

My opionion-- Nitrogen is slightly better than dry air for your RV tires. Dry air or Nitrogen are both a LOT better than regular "wet" air from those 7-11 coin operated compressors.

Whether Nitrogen is worth it is up to your budget and what you will have to pay. If you are a welder and have it in your shop, great idea.

Brett Wolfe

I agree with Brett and have more extensive info on Nitrogen in my Blog
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Retired Tire Design and Quality Engineer (40 years experience).
Retired Professional race car driver.
Retired Police Driving Instructor.
Member, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Delivered Tire Seminar for RV owners & two seminars on Genealogy at FMCA Bowling Green 2009, Madison 2011,

Indy 2012, and Perry 2014

I am scheduled to present two seminars on RV Tires & Three on Genealogy at Redmond, OR  in August

See my blog www.RVTireSafety.com and subscribe if you want notice of new posts.


#33 Tireman9

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 10:26 PM

A general comment on Truck vs RV tires from a Tire Development Engineer.

If we stay with the same size and Load Range, some tires may have some extra anti-ozone chemicals built into the sidewall but I am not aware of any meaningful structural difference other than advertised differences such as tread depth and pattern, both of which can affect ride & handling as well as long term durability and fuel economy.

If you read the materials listed on the sidewall you will see that most tires for Class-A have one body ply of steel. The tread area may have three or four steel belts but usually the difference here is also related to expected usage which also involved different tread depth and tread pattern.

Given that most tires on RV "age out" rather than "wear out" I would probably shop around for the tire with the shallowest tread as that would in all likelihood also give best fuel economy as well as be of lower cost with the possibility of better ride too.

When you are inflating a tire to 100psi there is not too big of a difference in ride between tires when you do controlled back to back tire evaluations which in the real world probably no one here has ever done unless they have worked as a tire development engineer for one of the big tire manufacturers or a big car manufacturer. This type of testing involves running at identical loads & speeds over a specific set of road conditions with no traffic to hinder the test.
When you get to the fine points there is no radio playing and the AC is off and all windows are closed so noise is not masked either. While an experienced & trained evaluation engineer might be able to feel a minor difference, most times the difference is well below the sensory threshold of 98% of every day drivers.

Switching from shallow tread 6 year old tires to new tires is apples to oranges comparison as tread depth alone will vastly overshadow any possible construction difference.
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Retired Tire Design and Quality Engineer (40 years experience).
Retired Professional race car driver.
Retired Police Driving Instructor.
Member, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Delivered Tire Seminar for RV owners & two seminars on Genealogy at FMCA Bowling Green 2009, Madison 2011,

Indy 2012, and Perry 2014

I am scheduled to present two seminars on RV Tires & Three on Genealogy at Redmond, OR  in August

See my blog www.RVTireSafety.com and subscribe if you want notice of new posts.


#34 tinkertim

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 01:32 PM

RV tires are made to reduce squirming et , some are 14 ply. I hauled winter weights on a log truck for years with 10 ply. Only time I got squirming was when the frost was coming out of the highway :) just base it on how safe you want to feel, I feel the suspension should give the smooth ride not the tire :))
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#35 tinkertim

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 01:34 PM

Good point with the ozone protection. That probably was a feature because of the sitting motor-homes do and hot areas they are parked in. :))
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#36 Smoker

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 02:40 PM

I have a question on air tire pressure. I have Michelin XRV 255 80 R 22.5. I read my chart that at 105 psi I can carry a total of 29,040 lbs. I'm I reading this right ? (9370 lbs each on the duals and 5150 lbs on the singles ?)

Also what is meant by the cold air pressure? Is this when I should be checking and adding? to ensure I have a true 105 psi ?

Thanks...Ron
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#37 wolfe10

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Posted 06 June 2012 - 03:18 PM

Ron,

Yes, if your front axle weights are 5150 on the heavier wheel position and your rear axle weights are 9370 on the heavier side, then indeed, 105 would be the correct pressure. But, it is rare that pressures work out the same from one axle to the other. Each axle is considered separately, with the heavier wheel position determining where to go to the chart-- all tires on that axle getting the PSI based on the heavier wheel position.

And "cold" is not a particular temperature, but " before driving at whatever the ambient temperature is. So in the winter in the morning, it may be 32 degrees F and in the summer 80 degrees F. The PSI would be adjusted to the same specified for your loads.

Brett
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#38 desertdeals69

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 02:57 AM

When I went from 19.5 to 22.5 about 10 years ago I bought Toyos because they cost less than Michelins. I paid less than $180 each for 245/75x22.5. I was told Michelins would ride smoother so about 2 years ago I tried them and they do ride much smoother. I guess the sidewalls are more flexible. There is a difference between a truck tire and an RV tire in some sizes. The Michelins are 235/80x22.5 with the same diameter.
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#39 Tireman9

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Posted 12 June 2012 - 12:47 PM

I have a question on air tire pressure. I have Michelin XRV 255 80 R 22.5. I read my chart that at 105 psi I can carry a total of 29,040 lbs. I'm I reading this right ? (9370 lbs each on the duals and 5150 lbs on the singles ?)

Also what is meant by the cold air pressure? Is this when I should be checking and adding? to ensure I have a true 105 psi ?

Thanks...Ron

My suggestion on tire pressure for motorized RVs can be found HERE.

I think there may be some confusion on the Michelin loads. The 255/80R22.5 XRV or XZE at 105 psi cold inflation is rated for 5,150 # each in single (front) position.
The load rating for each tire is 4,685# each tire when used in dual fitment.

Some tire charts give just the load capacity for each tire while Michelin gives the load capacity for each end of an axle.
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Retired Tire Design and Quality Engineer (40 years experience).
Retired Professional race car driver.
Retired Police Driving Instructor.
Member, FMCA Technical Advisory Committee
Delivered Tire Seminar for RV owners & two seminars on Genealogy at FMCA Bowling Green 2009, Madison 2011,

Indy 2012, and Perry 2014

I am scheduled to present two seminars on RV Tires & Three on Genealogy at Redmond, OR  in August

See my blog www.RVTireSafety.com and subscribe if you want notice of new posts.


#40 mblwhdqtrs

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 09:35 AM

My Motorhome is 8 years old. Iam considering Firestone FS560, Sumitomo ST 727, and at a much greater cost, Goodyear G670RV. We are retired and are starting to travel off and on about 3 to 4 times a year @ 4000 miles a trip with extended stays from time to time. My hope is to keep the rig for another 3 to 5 years. Thanks for anyone's input or experience on this manner, gpottinger , mblwhdqtrs
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