wildebill308

Lately, I can't see my signature in either Internet Explorer or Google Chrome. I started using Chrome because spell check quit working in Internet explorer. Now it isn't working in either. I have checked all the settings in my profile and settings??? Bill

Nope I have you. Bill

Good job. Now some preventive maintence on the rest of the conections. Bill

Can't they overnight it to you? Singe it have it noterised and cvernight it back. Might be able to do same day. Bill

The Sony would probbabley be cheaper to replace. Bill

That first trip is always something to look ,forward to. Where are you going? Bill

Welcome to the forum. Thanks for posting. Bill

I looked at the Samsung but it was 6" to tall to fit. Bill

If you use Camo gorilla tape no one can see it. Bill

90 miles is a short trip to get it fixed and find out what is causing the light. My first guess is it is something to do with the emissions system. Let us know what you find out. Bill

Now you owe her a nice dinner for fixing your problem. I like the way she thinks. Bill

I came across this on another site and thought I would post it here as an alert. This is from the National Park Service web site. If you are planning on going to Yosemite National Park I would contact them and check on the access. Big Oak Flat Road (Hwy 120) closed into Yosemite Valley; no access to Yosemite Valley via Hwy 120. Big Oak Flat Road is closed between Crane Flat and Foresta due to storm damage. There is no access via Hwy 120 to Yosemite Valley from Buck Meadows, Groveland, or Sonora. From Groveland, use Hwy 49 to Mariposa, then Hwy 140 to Yosemite Valley. https://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm (209) 372-0200 Bill

Not to bad as you understood it. Bill

Welcome to the forum Kelly. I would look abd see if you can locate the outher wiers where he replaced the conector. You should be able to go back to a 7pin conector. I dout he pulled them all out. Let us know what you find. Bill

I am in the "no rock gard" camp. My toad has only a couple of small chips. I watched very carefully when I got it for damage while towing. I have 60,000 miles on it now and I can't see any damage that can be attributed to being towed. I was talking to some one about this same subject at the last 6 State rally and we looked at his toad and it was badly chipped. He had the full with mud flap behind his coach. I don't know how high it was with his bags inflated to travel hight but I think it was to low and causing stones and debris to be deflected up into his toad. I have made it a point to look at coaches on the road to see if they had the full with flaps. I have also noted they don't hang strait down when at speed. they are at a 30-45 degree angle. Well until Herman gets NASA to let us run test in their wind tunnel we won't have any definitive proof. Bill

Welcome to theforum. I think it is time to get a second opinion. Bill

I don't think you are overthinking this. I think you are trying to do it the right way and that's great. Much better spending a little extra time and get it done right than messing up and halving to do it over. Heare is somethin to guide you on sanatising the fresh water system. I realey think just the turbalance of adding water will mix the solution and you don't need to drive it. It is not uncommon for RV owners to complain of bad water. The first sign of a contaminated water system is usually a bad taste, followed by strange odors emanating from the water supply. Bacteria may have built up in the water tank, especially if the water tank's supply has not been used frequently and has not been replenished with fresh, clean water on a regular basis. When a rig comes out of storage or is being used extensively on a city-water connection, the tank and entire water system should be sanitized before use. Some of the bacterial buildup can cause serious illness; don't take chances! Drain the water tank completely, then refill halfway with clean, fresh water. Mix 1/4 cup of household bleach for every 15 gallons of tank capacity in a container with a gallon or two of clean water. Pour this mixture into the water tank. Top off the water tank with fresh water. Filling the tank should mix it well, but you can also drive the rig around the block to mix the solution. Pump water through each faucet so that all the lines are filled with the water/bleach. Don't forget the shower and external faucets, if any. The hot-water tank holds at least 6 gallons of water. Run the hot-water faucets until this much solution has passed to insure that the old water has been purged from the hot- water tank, and it is now filled with the water/bleach solution from the water tank. Alternatively, drain the hot water tank using its drain valve, then allow the pump to fill with the solution. Let the water stand for several hours. Drain the entire water system, hot-water tank included. To remove the bleach odor, mix 1/2 cup of baking soda with a gallon of water and pour into the freshwater tank. Fill the tank completely and pump this solution through the water heater andthe rest of the water lines. This solution can sit in the system for a few days. Driving the rig around the block will slosh water around and thoroughly clean the tank. Drain the entire system and refill with fresh, clean water. Note: If your RV does not have a fresh water fill tube (aka a gravity feed), hook up an empty water hose to the city water inlet, and pour the requisite amount of bleach or baking soda into the hose, then hook up to the water spigot, open the valve that fills your fresh water tank, turn on the water and the water will flush all the bleach (or baking soda) out of the hose and into your fresh water tank. I recommend you leave the hose loose enough to let the air vent out or the bleach may splash back as the air tries to vent. The good news, if they used the pink RV antifreesa they did it right. The pink RV stuf won't hurt you but regular car antifreese can kill you. Let me know if you have any questions. Bill

The fun is just starting at my local track. http://www.texasmotorspeedway.com/fan-guide/fan-information/race-weekend-schedule Bill

We have been using CoPilot for the last couple of years. It has be amazingly accurate and you can set up a RV profile for routing. You can download maps while on WIFI so you don't use data. They have one just for RV's but I haven't seen enough good reviews to recommend that one and it is $50.00. I had the tablet 10" and can't find a good reason to spend $500.00 on a stand alone program.

My bad, Kay is right a good wash would be the order of the day. Get the salt off then do some remediation. Bill

I am with Carl, put the money in a savings acount. They find two many ways to not pay. What year is your coach? If you are just now running out of factorey warenty you should have all the ishues resolved or documented so they can fix them latter. You should be in good condition. Bill

What just because I might say something like "The Red River Rovers welcome Country Coach owners" maraujo9839 By the way Rexburg Idaho sounded familuer. I was through there last summer. Bill

The up side, where you are it should slow the rust/ coroshion ishues. I would do as recomended and start cleaning/wierbrushing areas and treating them you can pase your self and do the worst first. Bill

Wow you 2 area whole 20 miles apart. maraujo9839, did they say what they did to winterise your coach? I would look at the hot water heater to see if the drain plug is installed. The next is make shure the valves are set to let water into the hotwater heater. Flush and sanatise the fresh water tank. This should give you a good start on being ready to leave on your trip. You might want to change all your water filters while you are at it. With out knowing what they did to winterise it is hard to know what else to recomend. I would run all your systems to see if they are working properley before you leave. Bill

It would be fairly easy to set up a charge line to keep the battery up. Bill