rayin

It''s not foam, just black/brown dirt, and only from the starboard side vent. I agree Jim, Progressive might choose to total the MH. A new Xantrex 2000W inverter costs approx. $3k; add in the cost of repairing or replacing the body parts, then labor, whew. wildbill, both sides (containing headlights) are also damaged in addition to the genset panel and door panel.

What oil grade is recommended in your owners manual? Harder working engines usually require a heavier grade of oil. Then again, it might be a faulty oil pressure sender.

I suspect a faulty transfer switch or burned contacts if all breakers are working properly. Have you tested for 120VAC at the power cord from the genset (inside the transfer switch box)? Do not switch power sources when large appliances are running, it can cause arcing between the contacts, which then eventually causes failure. DISCLAIMER If you are unsure of your ability to perform such a test, call a professional!

I don't know yet. I take the MH to IBW next week for evaluation in advance of an estimate, and inspection by a Progressive adjuster. I think they might go with buying a used front cap from visionrv.com and repainting it to match my MH. Both sides must be repaired or replaced too.

Yup, the two intact center sections and the small part of the section that mounts inf front of the genset. I think it can all be repaired by a good glass man. I'm having the repairs done at Indiana Body Works in Evansville, IN., look up their website. The severe jolt even damaged my Xantrex RS2000 inverter, it will not pass-through 120VAC until I manually clear the fault that says " internal fatal error", and reset the main breaker in the inverter panel..

That was an unmanned filling station, no contact information was available. I'll let Progressive sort it out. The entire front cap below the windshield is cracked and torn in places.. I was told that since no front cap is available they might total the MH as it would be too expensive to fabricate a new one by copying the old one, we'll see. We arrived home today, along the way every RV park where we stopped gave our MH a disapproving look with the genset in full view. Oddly enough, without the center-half of the front cap I thought the MH handled better and got better mileage-seat of the pants feeling though. When the MH bottomed-out on the jacks it was a sudden solid jar. All the way home dirt was blowing out of the foam central air conditioning ceiling ducts. Tough way to clean them though.

Today was a bummer. I pulled into an unmanned truck filling station, spotted many potholes in the parking lot, all full of water. I avoided as many as possible until I came upon a wide pothole -so wide I couldn't drive around or straddle. I slowly eased my front tires into the water-filled pothole, when suddenly the front dropped like a rock. Busted the bottom half of my front cap all across, the pothole was actually a foot deep and wide enough for my 22.5 tires to go to the bottom and allow my front cap to drop onto the gravel on the other side. I've got to have it repaired, it's too old to obtain a new cap. Aah the joys of traveling_. Now I find out how good Progressive handles claims.

I hope you took a picture of the wiring before removing any of them. It sounds like incorrect wiring.

Well, we depart Ft. Myers Beach Thursday. Leaving 90F bright sun shiny weather and going home to 37F and rain. 😰 A man stopped me last weekend and asked if I'd consider selling our MH. I told him everything I had but my wife was for sale. He didn't hesitate when I told him $50k. I gave him my name and number for when we get home, he lives near Cincinnati OH, about 300 miles from me. Whether he buys it or not I'm going to recommend he join FMCA.

One post, wonder if he will ever return?

I used thumb tacks. Never thought of using hot glue.

Check the oil level, if an injector is leaking the oil will be over-full.

paul has his contact information in plain text on many forums on irv2.com and on rvforum.net and invites anyone to contact him with HWH problems.

I hope they put sealant in the hole. It might be very close to the steel belts and a hole might allow water to seep into the bare steel cords.

FYI, in 2017 in bought 6 Sailun S637 commercial truck tires in size 275/70R22.5, LR H. They are a copy of Michelin construction and quite heavy to handle. The final bill included mounting and balancing and installation; I wrote a check for $1,380 to pay the bill. I have never had any issue with them whatsoever to date. They were made in Vietnam, where Sailun has now moved all their factories.

Paul Maddox/ AZPete on irv2.com, works for HWH and is a commercial member of irv2.com. He has stated he will freely offer his advice and experience. He will not sell parts or charged for his advice. His contact information is listed on irv2.com and I repeat it here: email is pfmaddox@att.net phone# is six zero two 549 three six three eight. He farms too and may take a few days to return your contact, especially during spring planting and harvest.

Fuel prices are falling, gasoline is $3.96/G in Ft. Myers Beach. Temp. today was 88F., too hot to go to the beach and that white sand. Any you TX boys in danger of those big fires West of Dallas?

Contact wholesalewarranties.com and Good Sam; ask them about their extended service contracts before signing that contract. Read the fine print closely BEFORE signing any contract. IMO $10,000 is a lot of money for an ESC. Keep in mind these service contracts will not pay for normal maintenance or wear and tear, they only cover things that break. If you do not follow the claims procedure exactly, that is grounds for claim denial.

Without a detailed explanation of which specific lights and alarms, you cannot receive a point-on reply. None of your lights are daisy-chained, each light has it's own power source (+ and - wire), vs cheap Christmas tree lights that are wired in series where each bulb must test good for any to light.

FWIW over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground.

In the Cummins engine thread on irv2.com there are several long detailed discussions about the no-longer-made 650HP ISX. This 650HP version was only made for RV use, the trucking industry version was 600HP.

Always turn off the main 50A power pedestal breaker before plugging in your shore power cord to prevent the transfer switch from switching power sources under load. Then heed bowtie's advice. Your neutral is correct. There is ONLY ONE ground in a system, in RV wiring this ground is in the RV park system. this website explains in detail: https://www.myrv.us/electric/

Me too! I also have a 2013 K1500 4x4. I have not had any issues with my M&G braking system since installation in 2013. A tip to the OP, when you have the next alignment performed, request they set the caster to the middle of the range. DO NOT attempt to back up when towing your truck!

The owners manual specific to his vehicle is the bible, everything else is conjecture. Even the FMCA towing guide has been wrong at times.

Consider making major purchases prior to retirement, banks like that better. I retired from the Army in 1992 then 2 more times from major electrical mfgrs in 2000 at age 59. DW took medical retirement in 2001. We kept busy caring for our small ranch and our house, and of course our RV's. Today I really would not know what to do, as IMO we are witnessing the beginning of WWIII.