campcop

Yes, the grid heater and yes on ours it cycles for a few minutes or less depending on the temps.

From what I have read on OATS coolant, the testing for SCAs is no longer required. An extender can be added after a certain amount of time. As far as testing for SCAs, I used a petcock under the MH from a line that runs to the front heater. Test strips specifically state NOT to use the reservoir for testing. I assume due to contamination of anything floating in the reservoir.

Are you sure it’s not the air heater on the engine drawing amps when you first start it up. Ours does that for several minutes. Even the lights will dim a bit when the heater cycles.. thats a common complaint over on the TVRN from folks that have just noticed this happen or new owners.

Yes, I would be curious what the SCA levels were. I may be mistaken but Cummins requires it be checked frequently. I check ours several times a year and kept levels within the required levels. I kept receipts of the additive and photos of the test strips. In random conversations in our travels, I was surprised how many owners do not know that have to check the levels.

Whoever you spoke with surely needs a few lessons in customer service, unless.....you were less than civil with him or her. But in any case, my first response would be to write the President of the company with your complaint and ask that the correct mattress be provided.

I sanitize the fresh water once in the spring, I use two filters, one at the campground water outlet and then a 5 micron carbon filter onboard. As far as black tank, there are many different chemicals and bio additives, the most important thing is to use PLENTY of water and try not to dump your black tank until it’s at least half full, this helps prevent the dreaded pyramid . grey tanks can smell pretty rank too, a few times during our travels in the summer I will add a couple of cups of dishwasher detergent to the tank and fill it 2/3 full , drive to our next stop and then dump, you can do this for the black as well. Some folks use a strong pine cleaner in the tanks as well.

How much space is there between the door and the jamb in the area of the dead bolt? If you have an 1/8” or more, you can try running a narrow bead of RTV above and down both sides of the deadbolt, this would keep any moisture from running into the deadbolt area

As said, you should be able to find the heater core and hoses on the passenger side of the front of the coach. If you determine the heater core itself is leaking, just disconnect both hoses and put a piece of piping between them for a bypass. Chances are you’ll find a leak at the connections or a chaffed hose. I would suspect that if the core was leaking you would see fluid in the coach or at the very least, smell it.

I use a lock lubricant that is basically a solvent and graphite. Been using it for a few years on all my locks at home and in the MH. Panef lock lubricant aerosol.

Glad you found it right away. Happened at our house years ago, when the neutral was lost, some light bulbs in the house went off like flash bulbs. It actually blew up a built in surge protector I had in house service panel. Lost some electronics too, some failed a few months later.

Could be as simple as cleaning the terminals.

Blue Ox makes one that clamps both sides of the bar, a bit $$ but it works very well.

Not knowing your MH brand, I strongly suspect that it does not have the EMS like you describe. Our Phaeton had EMS but it did not really protect from surges, missing neutral etc, only managed the internal power usage. Transfer switches offer some protection but not enough for me. Suggest you invest in a good external EMS like Progressive. Better to be safe than sorry. We have run across many a campground with poor electrical service, like low voltage , fake 50 amp service, surges etc.

We have come across some parks that ask the age etc. Frankly, after stopping in some RV parks on our travels, we are all for it. Sadly we have noticed that the number of “full time residents” in Rv parks has been increasing and by this I mean RVs that looked like they haven’t been moved in a long time nor could they be moved. This seems more prevalent in the “oil” or pipeline States but is spreading. We have stopped at a couple of parks where there were only a couple of sites available for travelers, and these were fairly well rated campgrounds in GS, but that’s another story.

Our Phaeton chassis batteries were not charged by the inverter but had a seperate charger near the chassis battery compartment.

Ice in the bottom of the freezer could be a clogged drain. What make is it.

That's till you make a claim. Then the rates go up dramatically

Depends on what brand you have

What color is the trans fluid? When was it changed last?

Does your Mh have both the check engine and Stop engine lights. The check engine is normally yellow and the stop is red. If it's the yellow, I think you would be safe to drive it to the dealer. If you are hesitant, call the dealer or the Ford help line.

Not familiar with your coach, but if it has air bags, then I would check the ride height, especially the rear as this could affect the angle of the U joint and cause a vibration.

Operator never came back, I guess we'll never know what happened

As Brett said, 137 is high, I am wondering if your gauges are not off . If the onboard compressor has not come on, you will not be able to inflate your tires...here is a link for a handy little tool, parts can be bought at any big box store like Lowes etc, except for maybe the inflator itself. http://sv-jedi.smugmug.com/Projects/Mot ... 205-XL.jpg

Have you sanitized the system? If not I would try that. Mix bleach according to your manual and let is sit for 3-4 hours then completely flush. Your symptom are strange. We do get some foaming if the Mh has been sitting for awhile or when I hook up city water as air does get in the lines. You could also have a small leak somewhere letting air in but I doubt it. Have you changed out the in house filter?

Maybe I'm wrong here, but 800 lbs of torque seems to be a lot more than is required. Ours are set at 450.