rayin

According to the 2004 sales brochure the Ford chassis came with 245/70R19.5 tires. The Workhorse chassis came with 235/80 tires. The workhorse chassis was N/A for the 37PCT model.

iggy that is a good thing. Both organizations have been negatively affected the past 6-8 years by losing members, hopefully that will permit both to survive economic conditions and aging membership. We can't travel much since my wife was severely injured in an auto crash in 2016. In 2021 I nearly died from blood septis and resulting kidney failure ; recovery is very slow.

For comparison, check out Verizon pre-paid, We already have a pre-paid Verizon phone, so the hotspot is $35/month for 50GB plan.

The Kwikee steps are activated by a reed switch on the wall of the step well by a magnet on the screen door. If both parts of the switch do not maintain contact (kinda like you holding 2 fingers side by side, one halfway above the other) this signals the motor controller to either extend or retract the steps. The manual in this link will help you identify your model of steps and detail how and why it works. It also contains detailed repair and adjustment instructions. reference: Kwikee Product Service Training Manual

Depending on mfgr. it will look like one of these. I would assume it is either a Wabco, Haldex or Bendix brand. The most important thing to remember is block under the frame and bleed away ALL air pressure before beginning to remove the filter, next important is cleanliness, any tiny bits of dirt allowed into the main dryer housing can cause problems after reassembly. Clean away all road grime and dirt before trying to remove the desiccant filter. Since it is a 2007 and evidently never been serviced, I recommend buying the entire rebuild kit, it contains items to rebuild all the valves in the dryer assembly (4), plus the filter cartridge.

8th down under Technical.

Welcome! Sounds like a great MH, I've always wondered how the new Ford V8 was being accepted. I"ve been keeping up with Fords new engine since it was first announced.They've been the only gas engine in MH's ever since Workhorse quit. If I were asking this question, I would contact FMCA HQ directly. I can think of no valid reason for not having a gasoline MH forum, but I'm just a peon enjoying conversing about any problems for which I have meaningful information;; doesn't matter it it is powered by gas or diesel, motorized or towed, as I've had them all. What is important is brand, as there are specific problems with each that non-owners have little knowledge. Gas motors have their specific quirks, as do diesel's, but almost everyone has some knowledge of gas engines, less for diesels. I appreciate reading your signature, I didn't know if you had a Dodge chassis, workhorse, or Ford. We used to belong to S.M.A.R.T. before the pandemic. It's a great group of veterans. FMCA also has a veterans group. DW has medical issues that have prevented attending any gatherings or caravans; now it's my turn for having problems that prevent such activities. Now we're waiting for the body shop to repair our MH front cap, looks like it'll take all summer they are so busy.

I'd suspect a faulty trombetta.

There are several things one can do to improve operation of an absorption refrigerator. My Norcold 1200LRIM is a 1999 model and still running great. Residential refrigerators have been used by RV mfgrs. long enough now that we are seeing failures being discussed with them too. The first thing with an absorption (any actually) refrigerator is to adhere to the mfgrs. annual maintenance schedule. They have a much slower recovery-rate than a compressor refrigerator, which means little things are more important, like maintaining the seals, cleaning the heating chamber annually, not holding the doors open while deciding what it desired, keeping the "chimney" clean, vents clear, etc.

FYI, over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground. Like Herman said, inspect all wiring connections for a clean solid contact. I've seen female blade contacts lose their spring tension, allowing a poor connection. In fact I had one last winter, step cover would not extend, I found a loose connection on the rocker switch.

I never have a problem replying to a thread unless the member has not completed their signature that appears below their post. For instance read my signature and all your questions are answered about my MH. If yo would like to complete your signature, click on your name it the top right corner of this page and follow the links.

Actually it is a NON-CDL license, a true Commercial Drivers License and physical is only required when driving for profit or hire. That's how the guys who tow a 5er with a semi-tractor are handled. I really do think something more than a standard auto license should be required, especially for a diesel pusher with air brakes. OTOH, I really don't like government continually digging deeper into my life.

Joe, they are not however, ever at a loss for words_.

When did you last read the fine print in the contract you agreed to? Yes it is a contract with terms and conditions. ERS offered you a tow and you refused, that IMO terminated the claim. If they sent the wrong provider and were unable to locate one capable, that is their lacking. Virtually roadside assistance sellers require the operator to call around and locate the lowest bid for that particular assistance call among their list of providers. Another item; The operator you speak with only knows to read what is on the monitor in front of them. If you aren't satisfied, ask to speak with a supervisor, they do know their job. It may not be too late, call again and request to speak with a supervisor, then ask how to submit a claim after the fact. Be sure to explain all the details with patience. You catch more flies with honey than vinegar.

Make sure they are inflated to sidewall listed pressure, and do not tow over the maximum sustained speed limit.

This is the latest news about the DEF head failure problem: https://www.rvtravel.com/motorhomers-alert-epa-proposes-def-derate-rules-1052b/ This is the basis for the rvtravel article: https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=365521&d=1652623547

Did you ever get it fixed? Your question got lost in another persons replies.

I also wonder about the status of the NHTSA complaint group- filing. There is a work-around that appears to have the blessing of NHTSA if a new replacement head is unavailable. I'm just happy I drive this MH without the emissions stuff.

Sounds right to me, that eliminates backfeeding.

Did you look up the troubleshooting chart in the service manual for your specific HWH model? It's all under the link I provided for HWH. That is odd about Stewarts Services, they've always been great for getting jacks reworked. That AP number is not your leveling system ID, did you open the 2nd link for identification?

Yes I picked up all the fiberglass parts and pieces and brought them home in the pickup bed. That was the first question the body shop asked, "did you save the pieces? Without them reconstruction is next to impossible, as new parts cannot be found". wildbill, All the damage is below the windshields as far as the body shop can determine before the damaged fiberglass parts are removed. I'm confident once the fiberglass damage is repaired and repainted, repairs will be undetectable to the average person. Of course a body man will be able to see repairs have been performed. A side note; the shop owner told me working with fiberglass was easy for his crew, as most of them were MH owners.

Look at auto pin striping and see if you get an idea. I am thinking black gloss pin striping might look OK if you have a steady hand and good eye.

Yes, that's the plan so far. latest estimate is $13K. I spoke with the adjuster this morning. We're awaiting word from the body shop to take it to them.

If you have the skill set; I'd first check the ATS/ automatic transfer switch for voltage and proper functioning. What happens when you run the genset?

$6K is outrageous IMO. Look for a different shop. As to rebuilding your old untis, I suspect you'll find the expense is about the same as buying new labor ya know. This is an example of how much a roof unit costs: https://www.rvpartscountry.com/dometic-brisk-2-air-rv-ac-15000-top-unit-white.html Two complete new units for $1,623. If you have enough help you can replace the units yourself by downloading the instructions from https://bryantrv.com/docs.html#airconditioner