rayin

Wayne, you're invited to a cook-out at my house this coming Wed., I put the liner in my OD field jacket - so bring a jacket, the high is supposed to be 2°F; up from the low early Wed. morning of -10°. You might want to leave early, as it's ~1,300 miles to S. Indiana. 😎 I'll try to notify you if the 20# LP cylinder will not vaporize fast enough to keep the grill burning. OH, I do have a place to park a 45' MH W/ 30A electric beside the house.

We've only driven the 101 in Oregon(marked as safe for commercial truck travel) and down to the Redwoods in N. CA. A great Oregon RV resort to stay in is seaperchresort.com, It''s about 5 miles South of Yahats OR.

Last summer when I had Sailun truck tires put on our MH, I had the choice of Sailun or Firestone truck tires for the same price. The Firestones were the same price as the Sailuns because the Firestone was a discontinued model, I forget if the model was FS561 or FS562, one replaced the other. A call to a Firestone truck tire dealer would answer the question. A side note, Bridgestone owns Firestone: https://commercial.firestone.com/en-us/truck-and-bus

There are several CG's in the Olympic national forest. Go to the NP website to read all about them, length limits, amenities, length of stay, etc. I only remember 2 private CG's on the peninsula that are near the NF. It's been so long ago (2012) if I did remember it is out-o-date.

That's what HWH says in their FAQ webpage.

For comparison; I have the MH in my signature, GVWR is 31,000lb. The Cummins 8.3L ISC has 350 HP and 1,075 lb/ft torque. I flat-tow a 2013 Chevy silverado that weighs approx. 5,400lb empty. I average 7.3 mpg. I slow to around 40-45 mph on hills like Mt. Eagle if nothing breaks my momentum. Compare the HP to weight ratio for coach only, which should be 1HP to 100# as a minimum for satisfactory performance. IMO, that MH with ISB engine will do the job, but for me would be frustrating in mountains, and interstate on-ramps.

We usually spend the winter at an Encore RV resort (Gulf Air RV resort in Ft. Myers beach FL). They have never requested a copy of anything, I did have to show my DL the first time we stayed there though. I would contact their HQ directly with your concerns: https://rvonthego.com/about-us/contact-us and be specific.

I located a 2010 Fleetwood Expedition before we bought this MH. It was totally rebuilt and appeared "as-new". Checked with my ins. company and they declined to offer coverage; they referred me to a different/unknown to me ins. company who quoted a horrific price IMO. Never again will I consider buying any rebuilt vehicle.

We never had a problem refueling, as nearly every station sells diesel fuel. I had used my Discover card(2% fuel cost rewards) everywhere - until Discover emailed me saying my card had been compromised in Montana and has been locked, then I had to switch to Mastercard, as there was no way to receive new Discover cards until we returned home. The only problem our caravan encountered was small stations where maneuvering was tight, with 13 RV's arriving at the same time.

I unknowingly entertained my wife Sunday afternoon. We had gotten 6" of powder snow Sat through Sunday morning. I got the bright idea of using my commercial leaf blower to clear the sidewalks, at times snow was so thick I couldn't see anything; meanwhile DW said she was laughing so hard she peed herself, she couldn't see me in the snow cloud.

Now I don't feel so bad with the -1°F we had here in S. Indiana, gonna have a heat wave Tuesday @ 40° and freezing rain. Now where did I leave my Tequila and limes? I might take them to the MH, fire up the furnace and party hard. Wait, may have to stay in the house, the snow shovels are in the MH garage.

Wildbill and rls7201 gave the same reply. If you haven't already, test your TPS with an ohmmeter. Disconnect the wires and connect your ohmmeter. The actual readings are not of vital importance, what is important is smooth, gradual increase and decrease in the readings when you move the pedal from 0 to maximum and back. If you see erratic or jerky readings - replace the TPS.

There are some who advertise in the FMCA magazine.

How not to back your boat into the lake https://www.12newsnow.com/article/sports/dog-puts-fishermans-rv-in-reverse-backs-it-into-lake-sam-rayburn/502-6b77c26f-bfe4-430d-8bf5-22b94b18dd6a

That's a sure bet, we stayed in some in CA and AK that were 15A, (take spare adapters, I left one behind) and one with no power to the 15A receptacles,+ the water lines had frozen-not yet repaired. The 08 recession killed many business's in CA too. Since the latest Milepost information is always 1 yr old, we learned to call ahead for a specific stop. For whoever posted about it-re: true 240VAC /50A receptacles. They are capable of 100A total output under perfect conditions-as Wayne said, which in the real world is very unlikely to happen.

Whoever the advertising person was who wrote that webpage made several errors, perhaps the most glaring is the picture showing greasing a bushing through a zerk fitting. Above it they state rubber bushings not require greasing. Where did the zerk fitting come from"?

And another good reason NOT to bundle.

This is a normal flow diagram of an absorption refrigerator: Unless you have repeatedly operated your frig outside its operating limits, you will not experience what some refer to as gelling/plugging. It is cumulative; this is what happens when the frig is repeatedly ran outside those limits:" Continued operation in an over-heated condition results in cooling unit blockage whereby the rust inhibitor becomes crystallized and blocks sections of the internal tubing in the boiler. Unfortunately, this process cannot be reversed." This quote copied from The RV Doctor website BTW, I doubt the above is your problem. The picture explains what happens when the frig is level, when out-of-level you can visualize why the unit over-heats.(flow is stopped/inhibited)

As I said, i block the bottom intake vent, works every time for me and many others. Anyway, The Norcold Guy says the same thing except he uses the upper vent, with a caution to remember to remove the blockage from the upper vent because it cannot be seen from the ground. He does have a disclaimer for that reason, avoid liability if an owner fails to remove the upper vent blockage when warm weather arrives. As to "gell blocking flow"; the only way that happens is when the owner operates their absorption refrigerator out-of-level enough times to create the blockage. A side effect of cold weather RVing is, the ice maker water supply line and water valve may freeze if the heater wire that's taped to it is not working. The above solution also remedies the ice maker water supply issue.

FHU RV parks will be fully-booked, but phone ahead for late cancellations. If you are agreeable to camping with only water and electric for 2 weeks, there are several state parks (w/dump stations) along the SW gulf coast. http://www.floridaparks.com/floridastateparks/south_west/areafortmyers.html They are in a reservation system, which means calling ahead for them too, and will be the lowest cost vs commercial" RV Resorts."

EDITED to correct my error of safe operating limits, I apologize- I had them reversed. REF:pg 32 of service manual. A quick N dirty fix is to raise the opposite side from that slide just enough so water cannot flow into the seals. The safe operating limits for the frig being level is 6° front to back, and 3°side -to side, as looking at the frig door. When you convert that to inches per foot you realize how much out of level the coach will be, the rule of thumb is, if you are comfortable living.cooking, and sleeping in the MH it is likely within those degrees of safety for the frig.

FYI, heat pumps do not work well below approx. 40-45°F outside temperature, depending on % humidity.

The only reason absorption refrigerators have a chimney behind them is to exhaust excess heat. Keeping that in mind, this is the usual remedy for your problem. First make sure the insulation surrounding the heating elements fully-encloses the heat tube/LP gas chimney. The solution to this issue is to block off the bottom outside vent (incoming air), or place a trouble light below the cooling unit as necessary to allow sufficient heat build-up to boil the solution so it turns into a gaseous state. Refrigerator cooling will not occur until that happens. Absorption cooling unit explained

I'll throw in the way my Xantrex RS2000 equalize works. Both battery banks are connected for charging via a BIRD relay. I set the inverter/charger to equalize via the display panel, it asks " are you sure?", I affirm the equalize. Everything is automatic from that point. It first insures the batteries are at 100% charge, the goes to equalize mode and tests the batteries for actually needing the equalize. Sometimes it completes a complete cycle sometimes only 1 hr, once in a while it says equalizing not needed and terminates the process. Point is, all batteries are included in the process unless the BIRD automatically disconnects the two banks.

There is an entire line of "Goop" type products,, each has a specific name for intended use.http://eclecticproducts.com/products/ The word 'Goo" is not patented, thus several different companies use that: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Goo+products&t=ffnt&ia=web